broadsword
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Everything posted by broadsword
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cheers all. All interesting points of view. ive been using the cinch since it hit the scene but never with OP before. the mammut supersafe i had before was 10mm but am guessing on ly when elongated as it sure feels thicker than that when not stretched. just have to go easy and find the biting point on firat few climbs i suppose. lovely compact setup it is.
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spliced a nice new lanyard on to my captive eye karabinar over the weekend with 10mm OP. was going to use with my Cinch. Tried it out very briefly . grips instantly but the moment you move the lever.....hells teeth does it let you go. i know that this is a fairly common setup...anyone else use it? interested to hear opinions. cheers!
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Minimum recommended diameter is 10mm.....I have just bought 6 metres of OP to splice a new lanyard. Bet it works well with Cinch.
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.....so my import duty invoice arrived today for the Hitch Hiker kit. 40 squid......thought id got away with it! oh well top bit of kit that you cant get here so worth it i guess. just a heads up for enyone thinking of buying one though.
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Took my HH out for a climb in a fairly big beech today. Had too many wraps on the hitch so took one off and transformed it. I also tried it in DDRT (weird going back!) and it works really well! Very versatile and functional piece of kit. Impressed.
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Positioner isnt it? I bet that works really well in line with the HH. Smooth as you like.
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New hitch hiker kit and setup...
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Received my new hitch hiker and tether from tree stuff today. No extra charges from customs which I was surprised at and straight to my door. Iv'e been climbing on the rope wrench for ages and love it but fancied a change so caved in after reading this thread and seeing all the good feedback from those who have bought the HH. Well impressed so far although it seemed a bit 'clunky' at first. After a few sharp descents it became a lot smoother. I thought installing the pulley onto the harness ring might be a pain and clunk around but actually works really well and a very simple way of improving slack tend/fair lead. Really like the idea of hitch above device as found sometimes the wrench doesn't quite provide enough friction and my hitch 'binds' up due to me being a heavy lump I reckon. They also sent me some stickers which are adorning my motorbike panniers! Cheers all at treestuff.com:thumbup1: for excellent service.
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Technically don't need a rope wrench for ascent only but I would highly recommend. The whole point of the wrench is that you can descend with it on a single line. I personally do use it and think its superb but everyone has different opinions. Whatever you choose be sure to perfect the technique at low level and take time to get used to the equipment. low and slow as they say.
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Completely agree Dave. If foot-locking on a doubled rope (ie klemheist wrapped around both sides of the rope) be aware of how close you go to the anchor point and that descent can only be made safely with an additional friction device (figure 8 etc..). Doubled line foot-locking is a method of choice for access on the competition circuit and is rapid but high energy using and i.m.o. bad for for your knees due to the sideways load exerted on them. My left knee gives me mega gyp from years of foot locking and it takes constant practice. By the time I reach the top anchor point in a tree id be on the verge of cardiac arrest......but that's more to do with me being a heavy old lump and not an athletic comp climber (although I have competed!). There are safer, more energy efficient and ergonomic methods. Especially for salad dodgers like me!
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<p>Hi all at Lynher! Welcome to the ultimate Arb and forestry forum. I am sure you will find this a useful site not just from a business angle but also if you have technical questions on pretty much any tree related stuff. Cheers Andy.</p>
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Im on my second one now. Awesome bit of compact kit. The smoothest lanyard adjuster around when used in single line/leg/choked etc IMO. Plenty say its no good for tree work as it is designed as a belay device for rock climbing but for me its fit for the purpose and bullet proof. My first one started to slip slightly after a couple of years when blocking down/used on a pole so watch out for it creeping after alot of use. Enjoy it!
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I like to be able to disconect the rope wrench so that I can swap between the two techniques during a climb. I have the wrench set up so I can just lanyard in, take it out and then go back to DDRT. Best of both worlds. More often then not I will stick to SRT. It has transformed the way I climb personally. If I left home without my SRT gear I would be severely irritated!
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Why not always use a pulley on anchor point?
broadsword replied to recycledsole's topic in Climbers talk
Totally agree. I much prefer a ringed friction saver or similar as have also found my ropes glaze like crazy and friction knot locks a lot on decent. I am quite a hefty lump (15 stone ish) and have found pulleys to be more hassle then they are worth. I have a home made pinto rig pulley saver and never use it. S.R.T. these days anyway.... -
Personal preference and all that but you can just put an extension between the hitchclimber/micro pulley and the bridge of your harness to achieve a the same thing. A short sling or something. When you have made your ascent just lanyard in and take out the extension. I actually do prefer to pull down and then pull slack through when using DDRT though.
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Tried so many ropes but defo agree Samson Velocity is fantastic. Very flexible and easy to tie knots, grippy, brill for SRT and DDRT etc and easy to splice. And cheap!
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I have just received the blue/orange engelbert strauss trousers and they are well comfy. I have had two pairs of stretch airs and these are way comfier for me. £90 plus vat! Type A only though.
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I went back and tried SRT with croll, pantin and hand ascender and found it hard to trust the system as Ive got so used to a captive 'hitch' system (and rope wrench). There are so many other options out there now that enable quick descent in an emergency from the access line that it seems contrary to me to use croll/pantin/hand ascender anymore. its a free world and all that but especially as Petzl themselves recommend backing up the croll with another device there are safer methods for tree work in my opinion.
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....a use for a dog lead my lil dog Lucyfur nibbled the cord on.....no ore dropping me silky and it ending up chipped! ha ha....
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me cutting trees.
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From the album: trees n that.
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current setup... lets see yours! RW
broadsword replied to Sam Smith's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
new'un -
how does any of this relate to someone not being a good tree surgeon because they climb using both ends of their rope?I agree that lanyards, friction savers and alternative techniques need to be taught but using all of those things dosn't make you a good tree surgeon.....there are plenty of great Arborists that climb using both ends of their rope.
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Climbing with both ends of the rope is a perfectly efficient technique and on occasion I use it myself on awkward/tricky limb walks. Its where most of us probably started with tree climbing and has been used for Donkeys years. A great place for a new climber to start and get a feel for the tree, equipment and the possibilities of aerial tree work. As he's an apprentice and a large part of his learning should be on the work-site you can pass on your expertise later....
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I went from a pulley saver back to using a mutisaver as I found that having no friction whatsoever tended to make my friction hitch lock up/incinerate it quite quickly. I think the weight of the climber is an important factor and its less of an issue for the lighter climbers. I weigh around 15 stone and prefer slightly more friction in the system as found my equipment works better. That said I pretty much only climb SRT now (yes I know...yawn!) so friction saver is not needed.
