Jontreasure

I was going to ask whether it would open when a splice ran over the gate. Looks like it been answered. Is it CE marked for PPE?

BTW I use both with OP on a VT and hitch climber

I have both tachyon and blue tongue (essentially poison ivy). The tachyon is super stretchy and I also found imori quite strechy, when I had a play with it. The Blue Tongue is nice to handle and much more static making it easier to work with. By far the best of the current ropes IMO its also a much more sensible colour for a rope used in a tree.

192t great for pruning and can take some abuse

Isn't that question a reflection of what might be expected when a contractor submits a price book?

Software for specifically aimed at Arb. I know it exists but does anyone know of/use a decent and affordable program. I'm thinking of investing in an ipad or similar, the idea being that quotes could be written up on site. Hence saving hours spent writing up quotes from my notes that I cant even read sometimes. Any thoughts much appreciated

How static is it compared to some of the considerably more expensive alternatives? i.e. globe.

Thanks. Both good ideas. Not sure the tin trunk would work as it needs 125% capacity and a barrel is 205L where do you get hold of something like that?

Is it just me or is complying with fuel and oil storage regs an expensive business. I wanted to get hold of a barrel bund looks like its going to cost a minimum of £150. Anyone *got any better ideas?

Thanks stu

I'm looking to buy a barrel of red diesel can anyone recommend a supplier in the Surrey area? Thanks Jon

You could try using a DMM Revolver karabiner as your connection from climbing line to bridge although this might not be ideal as its a small krab and might result in unfavourable loading.

sorry your in the same position. The problem i have is that i need subby work to fill in around my own jobs. When the market gets quiet not only does my work slow but the subcontracting, understandably, dries up. Best of luck J

Hi All A few year ago I started a similar thread and unfortunately as of last month my work has slowed a lot. I'm currently a self employed working as a subby climber and carrying out a certain percentage of my own work. I'm based near Guildford and am on the look out for work in the Surrey area or further afield if the right opportunity presents. I'm NPTC qualified with CS 30, 31, 39, Aerial Rescue (38) and CS47 chainsaw use from a MEWP. I also hold the relevant NPTC for the use of a stump grinder and brushwood chipper. Further useful qualifications include Appointed person first aid, street works signing lighting and guarding and a fully clean C + E Drivers licence. I finished my National Diploma in Arboriculture in September 2009 and have worked in the industry since. I have my own climbing kit and 200t, I also have ground saws clearing gear and a transit tipper. I also carry full business insurance. I would also love the opportunity to get involved with the training industry. Having had the opportunity to work a Merrist Wood for a couple of days and helping train the student climbing competitors there, I found passing on my experiences from work and college very rewarding. So if any of the training companies or collages are looking for an extra hand please get in touch. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Please just PM me, send an email [email protected] or give me a call on 07981341114. I am more than happy to provide good references on request. Sorry for the long winded essay Jon

Congatlations to everyone sorry I couldn't make it.

The problem with a single line and extra wraps on the friction hitch is although it will catch you you will be unable to descend without a figure of a 8 or similar descender below your hitch.

Don't undersell yourself. I know of people getting paid good money just because they can drive the bigger trucks. Rescue ticket is always favourable for a groundy as well. Good luck

Aren't poison hi-vi and imori now the same rope with different dyes?

One or two from the website

Yes your right rich, you should be covered be your employers EL insurance. However to be genuinely self employed subcontractor you should be making decisions about the work and could be considered liable if an incident where to occur. Also if for some reason their EL insurance does not cover me I have my own to fall back on. I need it for my own work as well and it will help if the inland revenue tried to argue that I was in fact employed not self-self-employed. (a fine line when it comes to sub-contracting). However I know a fair number of subbys who don't carry PL on the same basis as you highlighted and I'll be honest and say when I first went self-employed I was the same. After all its a lot of money particularly if your working for someone and are covered by their insurance. If anyone disagrees with the above please say. I'm not stating facts and would be interested to hear the arguments.

I'm self employed and work about 3/4 of the time as a sub-contract climber. Which requires me to carry public liability insurance. When working on my own jobs I price with the aim of using another subcontractor although I still hold employer liability insurance. Like others have said unless it's a very small job a second worker will often more than half the time it takes and I definitely feel safer. However I do wonder how much more useful some "qualified climbers" would be over joe bloggs brash dragger who's got a good head on their shoulders.

Cheers guys. Those are the sort of things I normally do. I was just wondering if there was anything specific to the Mindl's. I could swear that, with one of my previous pairs of boots, it was recommended that they where first used in dry dust conditions. Maybe I'm losing it

Does anyone know what if any treatment you should aply to air streams before first use? Sorry if this questions being asked before. Thanks

For the 99 to 06 ranger the service intervals are yearly or every 6000 mile which ever is sooner. To be honest the owners manual doesn't give you much info just which service is a major and which are basic. My manual tells me nothing of what's involved in each service. i.e. gearbox and diff oil changes.

Used it with Rhys. The only real advantage I could find with the Hobbs is the built in heavy duty ratchet. Otherwise a spot on bit of kit. also the bars on the drum are effective at holding the wraps on the drum. where with the Hobbs you have to wrap the rope around a secondary fair-lead.