Treefitter
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Everything posted by Treefitter
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I recently bought a MA261c yes one of the new ones! On the chain break label it states the Decibels to be 118 yet in the operators book it states 116. Somewhat confused I rang Stihl to be told it was more noisy under different working conditions. I ask should the the book state 118? The reason for my query is I noticed the new saw to be more noisy that the slightly older one (3 months) which does not have the new M tronic. Have any other users noticed the extra noise levels with these new saws? I wonder does the higher noise levels effect the time which we professionals use these new saws? I think less myself I wonder if Stihl have considered this? Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Nickcurrie.co.uk Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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If it's like the timber wolf then the belts are too loose! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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May I suggest to the members who are offered bent gear that they don't threaten to call the old bill but they take pictures, registration numbers, they do actually call police. It might be inconvenient but it will be a step in the right detection for us all. You never know it might help rather than bragging about it afterwards. Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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I suppose it's how rich you are? Buy Stihl use and throw away! It's disposable! Expensive but definitely disposable!!! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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I was lucky enough to ask Penny this from A&F warehouse, Now gone and sadly missed by us all. She sold me the last few winching gauntlet sets she had. 10 pairs Fantastic never let a thorn through yet. I'm not sure you can get them now. I'll try and remember a picture next time I'm up the yard. Oh sorry I do not have any spare so please don't ask as refusal sometimes offends. But I thought I might steer you in a general direction! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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In the days gone by for chainsaws we used to use 10mm sisal rope and as a means of making it longer or shorter a rope grab at the harness end. The sisal rope is strong enough to hold the saw comfortably easy to splice an eye in and a stopper knot. And it is much cheaper since rope grab is something that will last. 10mm sisal because it will break long before my rope! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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I'm given to understand that if you store your equipment in a building the punishment is much greater then if stored in a shipping container or tool store. Not that that helps! More likely they beak into containers as the picking are usually better with little or no alarms. You could try hinge pins on your container doors and spring bolts or dead locks in the middle. I did and it has slowed them down in the past. But if they want they will have! I have been visited. More than once and have build up many lines of defence. Make it difficult so they leave u alone & go else ware. Monitored alarms, bollards concrete blocks. Oh and one last thing do it now as they will be back in 2-3 months to take it all again. BE WARNED!!! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Has anyone thought that selling the logs is cheaper than paying for the disposal of green waste? Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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I wish Timberwolf would offer a prize because I have a1993 truck loader it's now 20 yrs old on the original engine!! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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I thought Glyphosate was included on the red list so it was safe to use near water. Has this changed or am I hopelessly out of date? The active ingredient of echo-plugs is Glyphosate isn't it? Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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I've been using various stump grinders over the years. I think that on a small machine you can't really go wrong with finger teeth. If you are mean like me you can get them re sharpened as well! As to using a bigger machine ( I'm using a Rayco 1635) I think the Yellow Jacket's are as tough and durable as any. An advantage with these is that the pockets do not take such a hammering as they seem to with green teeth. The Rayco super teeth are fine but you only get one bite of the cherry before you have to resharpen them. This is an expensive option. I must add though Rayco along with all the other manufacturers are beginning to play games by designing their cutting wheels to only take their teeth. Some trial and error is required. Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Make a list of all equipment you have. Take photo's and keep it up to date. Insurance companies like order. I had a big visit some years ago and lost a lot, but because I had up to date lists they paid out very quickly. However don't be fobbed off with we can get if cheaper from from a firm miles away because you have to remember about warranty! In my case I don't think it was the ethnic minority that visited me, but enough said! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Interesting topic as yesterday ,although it was bloody COLD!, I was using my Rayco 1635 trac against a tracked predator. Needless to say my machine out performed and out worked the said predator! My rayco has bigger engine but the non performance and inability to cut softwood of the predator coupled with it's poor design and the jerky hydraulics, awful design cutting wheel, and extra vibration is a machine I would suggest that the professional arborist steer well clear of.
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Some pictures of what you are trying to do would be helpful. Why are you stripping down the wheel hubs to remove the axel?
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I reckon it's about 1cubic metre of wood, ish !!! And we use ratchet straps, cause you can reuse them, tighten them, and they work out easier. We tried the strapping and buckles but they kept falling apart!
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Why thank you young man! yes it's 30T in back ground, we are pleased with it. We traded first splitter because it was plain hard work moving the bigger bits of wood around. In background of last picture in front of "Tea room" is a modified Browns log chop which will chop though any thing else.It's run off my skidsteer. We also use it to it to split the rings pile I have.
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I thought I would start off with one but got carried away with pictures! But then thought you might be interested.
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We are looking for a competent arborist with NPTC chainsaw, climbing and aerial rescue certificates. A MEWP qualification and CSCS card would be an advantage. A current driving license is essential. We have been established near Oxford since 1986 and have a varied client base. Good contractural rates/wage. [email protected] 07831 235376
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Thank you all for helpful advice, and of a loan chipper, luckily I have a spare. As to repairing it may not be that easy as it's broken just by reinforcing gusset on inside rail. We have a lot of speed humps about today, so I'm surprised that the main chassis has broken. Perhaps someone will consider this when specifying new machines.
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I just thought I would let people know as it's not a fault that has cropped up before. Apparently !
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You could always try Tree Surgeons & Fuel | Boomeco they have been offering much better rates.
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Hi every one. Thought you all might be interested in development on my 08 Chipper. 1 owner from new. The chassis has broken just behind reinforcement gusset on the left hand chassis rail. My dealer is being very helpful but the factory do not offer any warranty. Or for that matter carry any new stock!!! A 6 week wait !!!
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You can always try a Carters Hitch. Old school method, but when stuck a great help. The knot can take a bit of learning but easy when you know. I also use a double fiddle block with a built in rope grab. Mines a Skedco Rescue Hauler, I believe ISC make something similar. I won't go out without it because it gives me a 4-1 advantage every time. And it's so small and compact.
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I've had 4 since 1993 serviced them, and looked after them. I don't think they are made of chocolate. They were the first company to realise the importance of being under 750kg. I've haven't had any major disasters. They keep on working, daily! Oh yes! I've still got the 1st one on the original engine. Mind you the paint, now that's another story!!
