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Brushcutter

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Everything posted by Brushcutter

  1. Mk 1 husky saws were bad on the restart when hot. They work better if you follow the hot start process of putting the choke on taking it off so it starts at half throttle. My MK1 was bad for it especially in the summer. Eventually it went in for repair and it has a new carb under warranty, which was the issue. What was wrong with it exactly I can't remember. Tank breather isn't blocked is it?
  2. As far as I am aware there is no NPTC or Lantra award for milling in general. Your chainsaw mill would be covered by your chainsaw maintenance and cross cut as the power source. I once did a band saw course which I got sent on and the guy who did it knew less about band saws than milling than I did. He was expecting a little workshop resaw as that's all he sees. A Robinson's resaw and a stenner 41 were too far out his comfort zone so I felt we showed him more than he showed us. So specific training for band saws and table saws exists. As the PUWER requirement would be to show suitable training did you get any from the machinery suppliers. If not maybe see if they could do you something? The other option if a local training provider would be willing to do a certificate of training. Then you have something to show people.
  3. Depends on the school. One school I go to every contractor has to have an enhanced DBS. If you don't no work. Blanket policy. Some places they you have a minder. If you need an enhanced DBS the school have to do it for you. It costs them rather a lot 250 quid I think. Once it's through you can sign up to the update service and it keeps it up to date for 38 quid a year. I do this so they can just check me if they need. Way I see it if the staff need checking the contractor do too. You just charge accordingly don't you.
  4. Post code lottery. Having things like drive and garage make a difference. My insurance is sky high as nobody else around here bothers with it....
  5. Disodium Metasilicate
  6. 346/357 leaked chain oil like it was free. It's just a little seal on the pump that's normally the issue. Seems like your going to have to spend some money putting new bits on it. Bit of Stihl varioclean should clean up the outside.
  7. A very good saw. Had the option of running .325 or 3/8 chain you just had to change the sprocket and the plastic bit that went in the worm gear that the sprocket sits in. Didn't really suffer with spitting out exhaust bolts the way the 346 did,.or at least that was my experience. Although replaced by the 560 the 550 feels more like it's direct comparison. Price wise modern saws are silly money. Second hand saws are also silly money. I think at it's youngest it's going to be nearly 15 years old I think! I wouldn't want to pay more than £200 quid for it but I think £300 would be a more realistic figure nowadays
  8. Check Amazon. I recently picked up a triple pack of 14" Oregon 3/8p 1.3.guage 91vx I think l. For just 18 quid. So at £6 each I can't argue. Just come in a Oregon branded bag in a cardboard box of 3.
  9. Thought about a BCS? serious money but seriously flexible. You can change between a rotary and flail mower and other bits. Downside the flail is only 80cm.
  10. I've got a little Aldi chain grinder. It's ok. Cheap and cheerful for how often I use it. It looks like a cheap copy of the basic Oregon grinder. I've used the fancy Oregon one with hydraulic chain clamping. It's the one to have in the Oregon line up.the Stihl one is also very good but once you've added on all the extra bits it's very expensive. But these things do last forever so and you can charge people to sharpen their crap chains and blades. Of course you could always import a simington grinder from the US and get a mess about converting it to run of 230v vat import duty shipping. It will make all the other grinders look cheap.
  11. You need employers which is the only legally required insurance for the climber that works under your instructions. Public liability is optional but you would be a fool not to have it. Most insurance companies will do a combined el/pl policy. Worth having tools insurance depending on how much you own. As for certs of competence I had to provide the company all my certs. And I have to hold a copy of my subbies certs just in case.
  12. If theses guys. Are close Pioneering application products for agricultural & amenity WWW.TECHNEAT.CO.UK Techneat develops and manufactures specialist application products for agricultural and amenity markets, one-offs or large-scale... They have plastic welded quite a few leaky spray tanks for me over the years
  13. If you don't do a lot a combi unit is great and some weird tools only fit on a combi. If you do a lot then purpose built tools are a lot better. When I first got one it got used loads as a tiny strimmer and a long reach hedgecutter. But what happened was I then worked out I needed those two tools and it just because a pole saw. On the petrol ones the vibration is higher than the purpose built equivalent. I've got a husky combi which came with the little strimmer which is great. I also have the edger and the power brush. Very uelseful bits of kit that only go on a combi. With the Stihl ones I think all the old petrol attachments fit on the new battery combi.
  14. Forestry days are better paced than Arb days. If I'm felling trees I know how many to the fuel tank how long that is. I'm not diabetic but I've always worked on the assumption if the saw is thirsty/hungry I am too. So rather than stopping for lunches and breaks throughout the day. I stop every tank of fuel eat something drink something quick pass with a file and crack on. Next tank might be 5 trees and then you eat and drink again. Natural foods like fruits especially banana is good for work foods as are nuts. Try to avoid fizzy drinks, but I love a fizzy pop or two through the day.
  15. I've now seen enough husky saw launches to not get excited. How many shows did the 540 592 go to before anybody actually got one? Must of about 2 years from the apf with the 540mk 3 rear handle before anybody saw one, in this country at least. I want the 550ixp and the 564 I'm sure it will a while before we can get our hands on one. Lo
  16. I wouldn't put bigger than an 18" on a 550. I only use a 15 on mine. I have an 18" on my 560. Using an 18" on a 550 won't kill it but it is a little slow and sad same can be said for 20. But if you use your 20 blunt it will kill it quicker. I'd be tempted to run 1.3mm guage rather than 1.5 to keep the power up.
  17. Is it the same spec hydraulic oil. Iso 32 46 etc. I once changed the oil in a chipper and used the tractor UTO. It didn't work very well.
  18. The arborist 150 is also a good chipper. Not as good as the Evo. I quite like them especially the vertical rollers. The downside is only one roller moves so feeding on the static side is a pain. I think I'd have the 230 over the green mech arborist 150. But the evo165 over the 230. Get a demo on the 165 you won't be disappointed.
  19. Greenmech evo165. Slightly over 6 inch chipping in reality. Very good machine I prefer it over the 230 but the 230 is a solid chipper. Nice aggressive feed, big hopper big opening.
  20. It won't let me read the article. However if you have the budget then it is possible. I go to lots of places where everything is electric. How often do you need to go bigger than a 200t and 261 looking after parks and street trees? Both are available in battery powered equivalents. And if you have the money for all the AP500 batteries your no worse off. From my own experience doing hedge cutting with a battery hedgecutter and chainsaw is no less effective than doing it with petrol. When I do an Arb day I use my 542i as long as I can before going petrol. It is just the way the world is going. As I mainly do felling and big trees my 550 572 are my go to saws and the practically of making the 572 battery is not there yet.
  21. Do you not have a guide bar roller tool for squishing the rails back together. A tool I've only ever seen and don't have myself.
  22. A bench belt sander is also really good for dressing bars. At least short ones.
  23. Any tractor dealership mechanic should be able to do it. Basic service isn't too hard to do yourself. If you have a fuel problem and you use the machine infrequently it's most likely water in the fuel or crap in the fuel hose.
  24. I tend to use fancy guildbars that are so hard they don't burr easily. They need a diamond to get close to dressing them. On the standard bars I use the dressing tool all the time. I really rate it. I've got a vlorbe one, does a great level and being able to put a consistent 45 bevel on the rail edge is nice.

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