Mike Hill

London. Innit

I have a Valtra N-101 with 3500 hours on it. They are now selling for more than I paid 4 years back. Crazy.

Thankfully its not too bad in this case. The two bolts closest to the chassis rail have broken only 5mm subsurface.I should be able to extract the bolts without having to pull the gearbox. Aparently not preloading the flange into the tourgue ball is a cause of this.

Up to my armpits in broken tourque tube bolts.

Do you think the indigenous people were conservationists? Or just lacking the means to pillage on an industrial scale?

And paying for all the Scots on the Dole.

Only if it came to England before America was discovered.

3 decent Cod in the Gill net. Some other fish too but they got biffed back in.

how deep do use set yer pots ? About 1 m under at low tide.

I put a net out on a sandy bottom. Be nice to get a big Halibut. The Cod are right up in the kelp along the shoreline. The pots look like eel nets joined by a low heavy net. You string it along the low tide mark. Its gets pretty sporty with a 22 footer in that close. Could do with a bow thruster.

Not sure, in Norwegian its called a .... Pelekunter or around here its called an Ulke. Myoxocephalus scorpius - Wikipedia EN.M.WIKIPEDIA.ORG

Checked my Cod Pots this afternoon. Three good ones and some interesting hitch hikers.

I dont know,its a bit specific to the machine. Its a DIY job for me. I can do them on a Jensen alone in a Day but I usually take two because I pull the rad and clean it plus water blast the engine bay.leaving the machine to dry overnight.

Bearing play: Open the top cover exposing the cutting disc and use a 3 foot long 2X4" to lever the Disc to and fro.Any noticeable movement of the disc and shaft means the bearings are on their way out. Apply the handbrake,if the handle points almost to the sky,the brakes need adjusting or are almost worn out.Push the tow hitch in and out to see if the dampner is decent. Crouch down and grap the tyre with both hands and try and pull it outwards sharply,on a smaller chipper this will give you some indicaton of the wheel bearing state.Repeat for both sides. Have a look at the Radiator,is it caked with shite or nice and clear? Take the top off the Hydraulic fluid tank,have a sniff,does it smell burnt? Run it up,play with the hydraulic infeed speed,can you turn the feed rollers right down? If they wont or they wont feed with the are crawling the pump is shagged. Have a look along the chassis or frame,alot of chippers get airborne over speed bumps by hamfisted muppets.Look/feel for cracks. The above will help somewhat I hope,some of the things to look for a Chipper specific but the above will hopefully be added to by others on here.

I am sure your right. But I only use those ramps for the chipper and they have done the job for the last 13 years.

Handfull of grit=up she goes. Screwing a bunch of roofing screws into the ramps means you wont need the grit.

I squared the edges with a length of angle iron clamped to the board and a skillsaw. Nothing fancey and it worked well.

Your drying conditions are likely better than mine? I had them outside undercover for a year strapped down. In the cellar stacked for a year and a half and then inside after that. Be aware that long planks without joins might give you a visual " bowling alley" effect. I had originally intended to lay the floor with planks 16-20" wide. However it just didnt look right and without a super high ceiling it never would. So I ripped them in half as well as cutting some " shorts" to break it up a bit. It suits the room that its laid in because of the roofing angles being that your eye is always " busy" anyhow.

I laid an oak floor in my office this year. I laid it directly ontop of the existing floor with just a layer of vapor barrier to stop the boards from moving. I milled the planks at 30mm. Dried them over 3 years,planed them and sat them in the office bound up with ratchet straps for 3 months untill the moisture content matched the surrounding structure. I didn't T&G the edges, the planks are 8-10" wide. I screwed them down but now after a year i will unscrew them and nail them down. One thing I did do was cut the ends of the joining planks at 45 deg.I sanded the floor with a little orbital sander prior to oiling. It looks quite nice. I left a 5mm gap all the way around and covered that with a thick list.

3 Big Pines 100 ton hiab out at full stick plus two manual extensions. Right over the outrigger. Kin horrible.

Good God!

165,000 miles and they want £26k for it? FFO KCUF.

If you are bucking big logs, you will end up using the big saw one handed at some stage. Its just the way its done. Same with crane work.

I think even Australians could work out what the switch on the side of the saw does...

Heated handles as an option on every saw would make them safer to use.