Charlieh

i have a 372xp no g setting, this ran fine for a bit from new, but had a similar issue with bogging when re-started just needed the carb resetting, this was most noticable when i swapped fuels from 2stroke to aspen fuels, which sounds like what your describing with it taking a while before it revs up properly, once the carb was reset it was fine. what fuel are you using? when you say the 357 wont fire, does it actually have a spark? if not i would seriously question the dealer about it, as something is majorly a miss like the coil.

where abouts near Burton? i have some contacts over that way, but i guess you wont want to travel to far for work. shop around for training there are several centers close to you, that might do you a better deal.

which wildlife trusts just out of interest?

hmmm, thought this was an arb forum? i have some weapons, mostly for work or specific tasks, I would never ever consider using one for 'home defence' I work in an office with several people who are of the 'anti gun' frame of mind, and i can appreciate their views, they live in manchester, sheffield and the surrounding areas and to them guns represent one thing crime, to me in a rural setting the represent a tool to carry out a job and i dont really consider firearms as a part of rural crime. to me firearms are no more than a tool, like my chainsaws, both can be potentially leathal if used incorrectly, Im not trying to upset anybody with this thread im just explaining how i see the situation,

i have a link to some stihl manuals online, but in the interest of not upsetting stihl and the website owner i wont post the link but if anyone is after something specific i will email them the link. also its mainly for older saws mostly before they became the ms series it does have the chain and carb manuals on it also, Charlie

there was a guy selling the hunter ones on ebay a while back i think they were going for about 30-40quid a pair, I just wear my chainsaw trousers in my waders if i am sawing in the water, but this is only for about 30mins at a time else they get very very hot!

some of us do! and its a right pain in the a#*e i havent been bothered to do my trailer test yet, will try and keep total trailer weight below 750kg for the time being. just bought a 130 defender so i have plenty of carrying capacity on the main vehicle. I have only once refused to drive an ag loader on the road, as i didnt feel it was safe, (boss was cool with that)

372 husky everytime, its the only saw i own that always goes out with me on every job. will run a 15inch bar up to a 24inch making it very versitile, its not to heavy to use for long time periods. i have a couple of stihls and a couple of huskys and i favour the husky's unless i need a really big saw then the stihls win. (but only 85cc and bigger) best advice would be go to your local dealers and have a pick up and feel of each saw your looking at.

its just that the oil tank on the 090 will be under the saw when milling, so if you need a refuel+oil you either need to back the saw all the way out the cut to top the oil up, or take the powerhead of the bar (which will be a right PITA) I just wondered if the aux oiler would deliver enough oil that if the saw reservior ran out you could continue....? i dont really know the answer to this one myself as i dont know how much oil the aux system will deliver (although it should be enought for a 36" bar) anyhows hope you all have a good christmas, and santa brings you everything on your wish list! Charlie

The 372 is ok but i wouldnt want to go any wider than 20" at the most, 18" is ok. the 084 is a bit faster but not by much on the narrower boards (and uses more fuel!) its also on a wider kerf chain and bar so takes more timber out. are you going to get the aux oiler? as i guess topping up the 090 bar oil, mid cut could be interesting

i know a big saw is capable of flat out for big timber felling, but its not very often that you would have it at wide open throtle for 5mins solidly. I suppose i should have said that its probably better to let it rest a bit mid cut, (i know i have to) as you may cut 1-1.5ft a minute, so a 10ft beam is going to take 8-10mins (if you dont have to refuel mid way) my 372 on 8ft beech boards 20" wide was using about 2/3s tank full of fuel each plank. i suspect the 090 is a slower rpm engine and better suited to milling for prolonged periods as it wont be generating so much heat. I though that it was generally accepted that milling put a lot of stress on the saw (a lot more than cross cutting) so the engine and other components get hotter for longer, as its air cooled its not very effiecent at dispersing this heat. I know i try to leave the saw for about 10mins between cuts purely due to the temperature issue, sure would be good to compare the two mill set ups eg 088/084 vs 090 as i was warned off a 090 when i had the chance to buy one (by the guy selling it), but in hindsight i should have just got it anyway for the harder timber, as i suspect its the diffence in torque that will make it a winner. Charlie ps i would like to see some video of that beast in action!

I richen up my 084 to about 9500rpm when using it for milling, also clean the air filter after nearly every slab even when using the 372 as the dust generated is phenomonal. A two stroke saw is designed to be run flat out for maybe 30seconds at a time not up to 5mins a time, so the heat generated is far higher than standard use, this could explain why that 088 seized if they hadnt been down tuned for milling. Charlie

The 090G has a gearbox drive to the chain rather than centrifugal clutch, but only had the same CC as the 070 if i remember correctly

Thats a nice saw, loads of torque but slower chain speed which is a compromise, i have a running 070 that i havent ever put into wood yet, as i have the 084, and thats just a lot faster chain speed, it will definatly be worth putting the aux oiler on your alaskan when you get it, as if i remember correctly the 070/090 dont have auto oilers, you have to manually pump it, which will wear your finger out very quickly when milling, is it a 090 or 090G? it will be impressive to see it going, at least your not limited to a 3ft bar you can go out to 7ft quite easily, for those bigger trees in suffolk! Charlie

i was concearned that a reduction up top could lead to more problems down the line. as for the balls....its what the home owner wanted, and we all know that the customer can be very hard to be swayed on such issues.

:wave:

i have a 24" bar and oregon ripping chain (3/8 0.058 7pin sproket) that I run on my husky 372xp, with no real problems, and 36" on the stihl 084 (.404 0.63 8pin), likewise with no problems. I would be keen to try a narrower kerf and bigger sprocket eg try and find someone to supply a 9pin .325 0.058 type set up for the stihl to minimise waste and speed the operation up a bit, its important to remeber that on a ripping chain every other set of teeth are for clearing the kerf if i remember correctly. i think 36" inch mill is ok for most of the time, and if you need to ever go bigger you can by a set of just the rails rather than a whole new mill

no they still head the right way, but i was having a chat with some EA guys on the bank on thursday at the wier where they usually get stuck. We couldnt decide if the extra water helped them get further up the river as there is currently about and extra 6feet of water coming down the river, or if they just laid up on the bottom and waited for the levels to slow a bit. i suspect we will never know as you cant see them in these water levels, and they could possibly be swimming up the wiers rather than leaping, its very impressive to watch, went out 2wks ago and saw about 45 leaps in an hour! (the fish arent in as good condition this year as they have been in the past though)

i think possibly a salmon there appears to be a slight fin showing on the lower back (all though this could just be something in the picture) this fin isnt normally visible in sea trout at this sort of distance. That said its very silver for a salmon thats running this late in the season, most over here in derbyshire are now very dark, but thats due to them being in freshwater stuck in nottingham for about 3weeks due to low river flows, no such problem today as everywhere is flooded, going to get some pics later on for work! tough call, Charlie EDIT: on second looks, its is quite dark so almost certain its a salmon

Matty sorry to see that, it must have stung pretty badly. I dont wear any jewellery, watchs or anything when im working either sawing or on tractors, (or at anyother time now either!) I hope your back to work soon, all the best Charlie

i have a 17" for my 084, now that is great for cutting logs in a hurry

both screws are factory set at 1 turn out on this saw, if you can get a tacho, idle should be 2500 and max permissible speed is 14,000rpm but i wouldnt try and alter this from the 1 turn out without a tacho to hand, Charlie

try http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/ if you know the part numbers you need he is pretty quick

I have just got through my 1st 5ltrs or aspen, and been to buy some more today. I am running it in a 372xp that had been broken in on standard 2stroke mix, it seems fine had to marginally adjust the carbs settings, but there is no smoke at all. I was cutting sycamores out of a hedge line and working in a ditch that ran up the middle of the hedge and it was a lot nicer than running the saw on normal mix. I will be switching all my newer saws/stimmers and pole saw onto it, but will probably not switch to it on my older/bigger saws. The other thing that might just be my perception is that it seems more economical that the regular mix, it certainly seemed like i was going longer between refueling, (but again i cant confirm this!) i am still running synthetic bar oil, but have just ordered 25ltrs of stihl bio plus for a contract for the wildlife trusts and some river owners, and dam thats expensive, i think i will try and flush the tanks before swapping bar oils thus preventing any issues with oil immulsifying.