18 stoner

Oh, you guys should always use a depth guage! Gives an even cut to every cutter, therefore longer life, optimum cutting performance, and, SAFER!

Should always sharpen first! The idea of the rakers is to give a set depth of cut, and whenever you file back cutters, because of the lowering slope of the cutter, you adjust the depth of cut. The cutters should be sharpened, then the rakers re-set. Therefore setting depth guage prior to sharpening is putting cart before horse!

Yeh, fair enough Stevie, i had a mentor similar to yours, some 20 years ago. Poor guy passed away now, way before his time, would have been nice to have worked with him a while longer, but thats how life goes. The way i see it, there seems to be little in the way of advanced maintenance knowledge, tips and advise when it comes to saws, whereas, there is when it comes to legalities, climbing tchniques, safety and legislation. Afterall, we are taliking of the tools of our trade, they are in a physical way, what earns us our keep. So why not have them running in the best possible way, extending life of such, and creating an easier tool to use for the operator. So, the reason i asked is sometimes you can try too hard by pressing the file into the cutter when using a file guide, and therefore the file bows slightly, and you end up with the type of pointed cutter that steve was talking about that seems very sharp at first but doesnt last long at all. Sounds to me like you are leaving it to your lad as an easy option, as you are not real good yourself. Just try and spend a bit more time on your own honing your skill, then you may be able to guide the young one better, once you have found better ways of sharpening.

Are you using a guide stevie? Perhaps the plate type holding the file.....

Seems to be more of a common thing at your side of the pond Butch. You guys seem to be extra particular:001_tt1:

Ok i have been a little sneaky, i admit. What i am trying to do is show that sometimes quality of grinding, as matty says is not upto scratch. Sometimes theres a variation in manufacture in how sharp they are. Some saw guys are more than happy with what comes out of the box. What my point is, is there is "sharper than new" and it is upto you guys to decide if you want to achieve this "true sharp" chain. I am just trying to draw attention to a little more time spent in the workshop and preparation of your gear. Believe me, just try checking the depth guages on a new chain before you run it, then have another think.

I didnt say sharpen a sharp chain, i said a new chain! Big difference!

Also, they may think thats how it should look and think the workmanship is great, afterall they will have seen it many, many times before, so it must be right:closedeyes: Shame the puplic are brainwashed with terms like lop and top and topping:mad1:

You never now BBB, the customer might be really happy in the knowledge that they got the job done less than half the price of the other quotes:scared1:

After years of saw work, i've learned that sometimes after putting a new chain on a saw, it doesnt seem to cut perfectly and actually seemed to cut better after the first sharpen, now i always give a new chain a rub straight out of the box. I understand such saw vets as Al smith and Pete McSarnie have done this for years. Today i even took 4 strokes off every depth guage on a new oregon chain. Anyone else do the same?

Nahh, way out, its single phase and British Telecom:001_tongue:

Can you id this one tony?

Sorry John, couldnt resist! Nice pic by the way:thumbup1:

Didnt fancy giving them a quote then? After your recent private job, wondered if you might fancy it? Lol:001_cool:

So how about a wee lift over them roofs then John:sneaky2:

Wow Iain! Bet there aint many complying with that last paragraph:scared1: Cheers for the info, well appreciated.

He found it the top of a conifer:001_tongue:

Had exactly the same happen to me a while back. The piece of hedge i looked in when i priced it must have been the only bit out of 200meters without any in it:scared1: As it happened, it worked well for walking through as it was like a pathway and was strong enough to stand on. All the previous guys brash was left where it was, as in the quote it clearly said "Reduction of conifer and removal of waste from this reduction":sneaky2:

Think that just about sums it up for most, you got chain oil in your veins:001_tt1:

I'll groundies more than that! Sounds like you are a bit frustrated Ross, but you will get sorted in the end.

Great post as always Uncle Al! I recon my little saw would love to come on holiday to your shop Al, just to see what else you could get out of her:001_tt1:

As for me Dean, i think in this particular case the earlier pruning cut would not have made much difference to this outcome. The dead on the back of the stem seems to be away from the callus around the older wound. (hope that makes sense!) I like Stihllearnings idea of returning when the ridge is more evident.

Nice one Khriss, do you think its nearer the power of a 200 now? Al, that Magnum sounds a beast! Is the 038 around 60-63cc stock next to the 660 at 93cc?

Trouble is Bob, i dont believe most people are managing well, going by how many threads there are on here about different aches and pains people get and what pain killers and suppliments to take. Recently i have been suffering from tennis elbow and it seems many other people do also. A lighter saw must be a better option for this alone? Oh, and changing sprocket size, ie chain speed, is that not altering the manufacturers spec also? Go on Bob, I'm ready...........................