Marc

What is the visor?

Treebogan, do you not place a pulley above the grcs to ensure the load is always coming from above the device and loading it at the ideal angle? I can't see how you can torque it round, but I am as yet to try dropping some truly chunky bits on one as yet. Another big plus, is the grcs is self tailing and only requires one groundie to operate the winch, where as i'm led to believe the hobbs requires 2 groundies to operate the winch.

Just thought i'd post this pic in here of Jamies splices, he helped me in making my own superior, stress free, easier retrieve rope guide. I managed to cram both ends of the Tenex onto the pulley, I had to remove the ali spacers, there only on there to make a better fit for the ART tape anyway. Its all snug now and perfectly sized (just a little wider than the pulley to make going through the big ring easier). Thanks again mate:icon14:

Frans either you've got very small hands or thats a supersize caritool. I think its hard to say how well a bridge will look from a picture, as I tink there is more to a well performing bridge than having it spread out and flat. One of the best bridges on a harness i've used was the dragonfly/butterfly 2, on full twist its held my body in a great postion and it was'nt just the bridge that did this, the 2 straps connecting the waist and leg support also articulated well. I'd love to own a harness that combines all the best bits of every other harness i've tried, as it is i'm always having to make a trade off somewhere. Still yet to climb in a treemotion though.

Aww mate get a GRCS now! Its freakin awesome! Don't go penny pinching and cheap out on a hobbs i'm sure it is good, but the grcs is better. Tomorrow i'll try to get some of my pics together, most not very impressive, but it will give you an idea of the winching ability and lowering abilities of a grcs. I always thought they were expensive, and that you could use other tools to do the same job, i,e capstans, fiddle blocks and portable winches. I also think that once you are good at utilising tools like fiddle blocks and winches you will just get how good a grcs is, and be able to use it, if that makes sense.

I would'nt be worried about hydraulic levels, its the oil in the sump when running at those angles for prolonged lengths of time that can be a problem, I know someone who siezed their engine running it like that.

Nice mod Frans, I like the use of the angular side D's, I hate that stupid oval adjuster on my Geckos its poorly positioned and the velcro does'nt sit right, thats only a minor niggle. And for what its worth I always wear my Geckos fairly loose, so cinching them up tight is not a problem. I'd take the D's of my Treemagic, only after a year of regular abuse its still going strong.

Nice work Lee, be good to see more pics of the plant health care in action, rather than another big top hittin the dirt.

Nice job steve, out of intrest did you count the rings? I did a few big hybrid blacks, not quite as tall/big but probably just as wide at base they were between 35-40 year old, the rings were at least an inch apart and regular. Those pop's sure grow fast.

I bought a pertex shell in a sale at go outdoors, only cost me 15 quid, I thought instead of buying £60 Rab smocks for work, I could wear this over a fleece its much the same thing. The pertex fabric is lighter though and not as durable I reckon.

-38 ideal temp for a buffalo.

I don't wear the jacket for work, its a little warmer than the smock, and to nice, thats my winter jacket for trips to Wales. I mainly use the smock, and the Pertex outer is very durable, it has a very deep front zip for cooling down, plus the velcro sleeve open wide enough so you can roll the sleeves upto your elbow. I'm not saying the Buffalo is not worth it, its just the ones i've tried are to thick for me, and that Rab make similar stuff just a little lighter. The soft shell jacket I wear is a Stretch Air jacket, the scholler fabric is great, the build qaulity is not, the stitching is appaling, and I don't like the cuffs. Its not a bad jacket, but there are far better out there. Mammut make a nice scholleor jacket, and the North Face apex shells are really good to. Berghaus also made a nice scholleor jacket. All are cheaper than a Stretch air and better made with stronger seams, better design features and use the same/similar durable fabric.

Don't always believe the description/marketing! Buffalo have been about for donkeys years and make good stuff, i've only ever seen the really thick tops, they are just to warm for me. The most i've worn to work is a wicking T, light fleece and soft shell jacket, or just a wicking T and my Rab smock. I freeze my arse off to start with but once I get moving i'm just right You can get Rab smocks and jackets for 60 quid if you shop around.

http://www.rab.uk.com/products_vr_stretchtop.html http://www.rab.uk.com/products_vr_vrclimb.html

I wear a Rab vapour rise smock in really cold weather, its also pertex/pile style top a little lighter though as I find the buffalo tops to hot. I also have the Rab vapour rise climbing jacket which is warmer than the smock, but to nice to wear at work. They are not water proof, just water resistant and dry very quickly. I got them cheaper than my strecth air jacket and they kick the crap out of it and are far better made.

I was a little disappointed with the tree austria 2 over the 1, i'd wait for the tree austria 3. Although i've only climbed on those harnesses for a few weeks which is not long enough to form a proper opinion. I quite like the look of the new dragonfly/butterfly, these are well made and durable harness imo. Not that I like well made or durable, I climb on a treemagic these days, (who wants a harness to last them forever?)

Chicken liver or lambs liver I think is high in iron? Don't rely on supplements.

Unlikly, I think it comes down more to your own natural ability/apititude. On the job is when you'll start learning, and hopefully you'll have good experience there to draw upon. You guys taught throw lining and footlocking at college?

Loler inspector who did all my kit was'nt to worried about the lack of markings on some of my kit, including loopies and rope. He marked it up said it was fit for use, but did include in his notes that he did not know when it was bought into service. So as long as its all recognisable standard arb kit (and not some blue polyprop of a builders site) in good condition, a Loler inspector should'nt have any problems marking it up fit for use. I'm sure i'll be corrected if i'm wrong.

Check out RCO pic's on the EKN Kolibri thread, he's using a weak link, and if someone of his ability is then I would. Personally I use a friction hitch on my flipline, so thats my weak point, plus its easier to back off when weighted. I like Petzl button locks on my lanyard, but i'd still go 3 way on a side strop never known it to be a problem. And i'd say never use wd-40 or any wet lube on biners it will just attract more crude and they'll get sticky quicker, is college teaching you that? If you can't find graphite powder, then just wash them in warm soapy water biners do not really need lube, and this is all the maintenance Petzl suggests with their care leaflet.

Meindl, other than Steve who else has tried both Haix and Meindl, to me there is no comparison.

Ah yeah I remember now, but its funny how not to spec goes to it was a problem. And how it can be misconcieved. I've heard a few times it was a problem, then i go and say that on a forum and before you know it everyone thinks the bridges were dangerous.

I detest hedge cutting with arb firms, I used to do a bit when I was head gardener in an Oxford college. I could do a bit, have a rest, do a bit more, rake up, do a little bit more, have a cup of tea, do a little bit more, have a pimms. And this would go on for a week. But commercially with an arb firm a similar sized hedge would need to be done in 2 days of solid cutting, I understand why to, to be commercially viable and make a profit. I'd find it very hard to go back to the yard and say to the boss its going to take me a week as I need to stop and rest every 15 minutes. I've worked with firms who've found a way round it, mainly by tackling big jobs on mass sending all guys in there so you can rotate cutting/tidying. Not all firms have that flexability. I've moved on a lot, my health is important to me, if I don't like the way a company works i'll try to approach them, if they don't like it I go, i'm a hard worker, reliably and with a good skill set. And I intend to work into my 40's and not be f@cked. You don't have to hurt yourself to be productive. Fingers crossed where i'm at now is the right place.

Why'd you pass on that mog if its a Atkinson Lee? all the mogs I drive are from Atkinson Vos. Just curious

The Treeflex had some problems on early models, and so did the Butterfly/Dragonfly mainly due to the bridges if I remember right? Still I climbed on a Dragonfly for 1 year, and would have no worries climbing on a Treeflex. Whats important to remember is inspect your harness regularly and replace worn parts. On another note I modified my Dragonfly, replacing the original bridge in the same way as a treemotion, I felt this was safer as the stopper knot prevents the rope from grabbing the shackle bolt and potentially lossening it, because only a 1/4 of the rope contacts the bolt and the stopper knot prevent the rope bridge moving against the bolt. Where as the stitched webbing bridge wraps round a full 3/4 of the bolt and when you shift your weight in the harness it grips and shifts on the bolt slightly. Some Dragonfly users found this lossened the bolt, although if you tighten it properly using loctite it should never come undone no matter what bridge you use. My bridge was failed by a loler inspector, the guy who climbs on it now claims he said it could lossen the bolt, which is rubbish the original strap is much more likly to lossen the bolt. I'd of failed it cause it was home made by me.