Marc
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Everything posted by Marc
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What the! best practice says a lanyard as a connection in the system should be no more than 2m in length? Am I misunderstanding something? My lanyard is 7m long, and having a 7m single leg secondary anchor comes in handy!
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I use a klemheist tied loose, the beauty of a kelmheist is it will still grab reliably tied loose (and by loose i only mean a little loose). It can also grab a tapering spar which is usefull to know. Play around with type of cord and diameter to get it just right.
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Try this link http://www.mytreelessons.com/user/VT%20variations.JPG the site also has pics of many other good knots and info. I don't use that knot in the pic I posted. I have tried it and it is well worth giving a go. I'm on a knute. One of the main reasons I tried the half hitch at the bottom of a VT was I heard it can help prevent rope twist which happens when using a VT on certain rope.
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You need to wash your helmet every now and again, helmet hygiene is very important.
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O.k black does look cool, but its going to get hotter in the summer, and as Pete points out its harder to spot on the ground. Its a real bug bear for me, as most groundies i've worked with where dark subdued colours and a black helmet, and I always like to know where people are when they work under me. I'd vote white its the most sensible colour, easy to see and does'nt absorb heat, but I just bought a new orange one.
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I would say its the way it was set, i've not used a kolibri, but I imagine like most of the new harnesses you can adjust the center of balance i,e how much weight is distrubuted between the leg loops and waist belt. I prefer my harness slightly biased to the leg loops. And again welcome to the forum steven
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Sounds like me, but slowly i'm getting there.
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A yacht chandelry near me sells a fid set for about 40 quid, it has a full range of sizes. And just found this on ebay it looks like the same set. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Selma-set-of-4-doublebraid-rope-splicing-fids-tools-fid_W0QQitemZ330231270975QQihZ014QQcategoryZ123703QQcmdZViewItem Jamie would be better able to advise on whats best.
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Nice work big gun, that Beech did'nt look to bad certainly climbable, but cranes and mewps make things easier, safer and fun.
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I think that set up sounds good for your needs Jim, don't get to hung up on what we all say on here, everyone has a favourite set-up and idea of what the best method is. And i think most would agree, what you have in mind is a nice set-up. By the way fliplines as main climbing strops suck!
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well i'm in one of the pics, so glad no one got a pic of me getting stuck 6 ft up and making a hash of decending on a footlock line
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The VT in the pic has a half hitch after the last braid similar to a knute it makes it a little smoother and consistent. symetrical biners are good for lanyards as they are narrower and don't dig into your side, plus less chance of side loading. At the end of the day any compact biner is o.k.
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For me the scariest part of my day is driving to work, I put my life in the hands of other stupid motorists everyday. At least in treework its my life in my own hands (most of the time) I know there are risks of serious injury in my job, and I accept them and believe its possible to do this job safely and have a long productive career. And I don't want any H & S body to think that I can't and that this job is to dangerous for me to do.
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Here is a pic of the set-up i'll be using. I'll go for 7m will lose some length tieing a fishermans, and stuff the excess in a ditty bag to stop it getting snagged. The mini prussik is for cinching around stems so you don't side load the karabiner, that way you can have the lanyard set to your central anchor point and used as a single leg, therby getting the use of all the length, instead of having it doubled to your side D's, obviously this is for a second stabalising anchor not as a life line.
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Why not get a 5m steel core? Only joking, Grillons are o.k but expensive for what they are. I've been using some Yale XTC (about 3meters) with a rocker style grab for a year now, but will be changing. Before I used some 11/10mm static rope, it was much more hardwearing and lighter with 8mm prussik. So now i will go back to the 11mm static, ditch the grab in favour of a knot, and I will be going for a 5m + length as yes I think the extra length is handy. I also hate snaphooks, I cut them off my steelcore lanyard. Splices look neat but are expensive, and there is no major benefit, having said that if you want something custom made to your liking the Jamie is deffinetly the guy to speak to.
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I was'nt even aware the dragonfly had leg loops?? Its a seat harness, and as such has loops to prevent you sliping through the harness upto your elbows, so I had mine set as loose as possible, which meant the seat could move about freely, I prefered the seat high seated around my sit bones of my ass, this way it did'nt put pressure on my hips or force my legs together. Now I climb in a leg loop harness and much prefer it over a seat style Dragonfly, its still a very good durable seat harness imo.
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Its very frustrating having trees you've planted vandalised, especially when your just trying to improve the area, or plant trees in someones memory. When I was a kid though I did'nt think about these things
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Nice planting, do you stake high to gaurd against vandalism being in a school? I prefer low staking as it allows the root ball to move more and stimulate root growth. Here is a pic of a small selection of the tree stock where I work, in the picture are Laurels, Carpinus, and some large Acers.
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I thinking buying a complete kit from scratch is expensive, say if you were employed then went self-employed, or starting out. But once you have it, it earns you money and keeping it uptogether is relatively cheap.
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Thats subtle, any reason for thinking one of the most popular harnesses out there is rubbish? Dragonfly was my first harness, i'm in a treemagic at the moment. Jonsie do you have the slightly updated Dragonfly's in stock?
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Nice work as usual Steve, that Beech looks paritcularly spindly, don't you wish you had a second climber on jobs like that?
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That was my biggest grievance, its not really changable, it is what it is, like it loathe it. I see your point though it is consitent and reliable. I love the ART rope guide, but not the rope guide itself so I made my own version using an ART pulley great device. We are all different as climbers, as I found using a pulley worse for bodythrusting/trunk walking, because there is little friction to aid holding my weight. In fact I find body thrusting knackering full stop, so avoid doing to much of it. What a rope guide excels at for me is smooth running of my ropes as I move out, up and in from limbs, thats its main benfit for me. We are all different and have our own preferences and stratergies for moving about the crown of a tree, some ideas work great for others and some not.
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Tried one for a month and did'nt like it, much prefer a knot which is easier to tailor to my climbing style and replace when worn.
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Frustrating as it is, trying to get payback/revenge/eye for an eye can be ugly. I'd suggest just leaving the chains on his doorstep with a note saying you that he forgot these when you visited my yard, your not causing any damage to his property but your making him aware you know.
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Goes without saying, my mistake.
