Marc

Generally thats been the way I see it to, but last year I was involved in a big MOD contract, first day on site the H&S bloke - clerk of the works whoever, asked to see our CIS cards? Which isn't really relevent to us. He then found out about nptc so wanted to see those. There was an upset as when the contract was qouted and accepted they never asked for such details to be shown, so day 1 we got on with the job on the understanding that day 2 we bring our tickets, including i'd and proof of address. All of us brought our nptc tickets, but some of us did'nt have proof of address, as some of the climbers come from all over the country. We had to wait hours whilst this was being sorted out, in the end we left the site/job leaving some of the accrued debris, and they were left with a hefty bill for wasting our time. It was a worrying sign though, and not good for said company although I do not think they were to blame, more the incompetency of the mod staff, as all info could of been provided if asked at qoute stage. Again I ecountered the same problem when the clerk of works at a local college asked to see our insurance, and relevant qauls. this was 3 hours into the job!!!!! I told him he should of sorted this out before for ever got on site! To which he had no reply. Not that any of these clerks or HSE bods no what nptc tickets are, most of them see the card and think it means we can carry out any tree related task, as there not aware of individual units.

Maybe, but there is another point in there, those of us who want! to comply will pay the price, but those who don't, won't. I want to prove my competence, I don't want to be spending £1000's on a continual basis doing it! Looking back over my records i've spent close to £3500 training myself in 2 years factor in cost of my equipment, which is £3000, loler, £200 a year, I suppose it is tax deductable. I still lack some tickets, apparently I need a chipper ticket, I wonder waht machine they'll test me on? probably a Timberwolf, but I use 18" Bandits 13" pto Duckers, and 20" Vermeers, these machines will chip you whole! and often require forwarders and winches to feed, The Bandit even has a last chance cable in the hopper in case you go feet first I guess:scared: Is a half day course really going to make me safer and more competent to use such machines?? So I reckon I need another £2500 worth of training, in 5 years time am I supposed to redo all my tests? how is this even possible. And like a driving license I doubt I could pass the strict criteria anymore, as I have a few bad habits. But does that make me any less competent?

Well I quit my full time job to go back to contracting myself out, i'm going to go as legal as I can with full insurance etc. This year i'll also be looking to increase my knowledge on tree biology and fungi ident, then start an arb course 1 day a week, probably Tech Cert. And look into the potential of consultancy work in my future. Oh yes and plant more trees, this i've found can be very profitable.

I hear ya Telhol. If I could renew my tickets at 50-70 for a days re-assement I'd do it, but that may never happen. Apprenticeships are a good idea to, the company I just left took on a new lad he is the apprentice, so far he's done 4 basic units in 3 months, great apptitude. But i shudder at the cost this company is ploughing into him, and what if he leaves after a year. Its very hard to get a break when your a newb, I knew i'd be good at what I do, but no one would give me a chance (so I lied) I thank people like Buzz and other giving me a chance and shoving me up trees with little to no nptc training. Once I had a basic grasped I then did my units. And personally don't ever want to do them again, as in most cases I learnt little, and as pointed out in some case's given dangerous advice, not on purpose just in less than a week you can't cover all eventualities. A year long apprenticeship would produce better qaulity climbers I suppose.

I did'nt realise that some ear plugs give far better protection than ear muffs. Still I like the simplicity of ear muffs, and the Sordin or Peltor version are very good, and cost about 15 quid.

Short answer, No. Armillatox will not cure honey fungus, and is a rather impractical means of sterilising the soil. Only time i've used it to transplant shrubs during winter months from beds with Honey Fungus, we'd blast the soil of the roots, then sterilise those with Armillatox. How it affects other soil fungi i'm not sure but I can't imagine it be good. We did try "saving" some small trees using Armillatox, with no success, maybe we did it wrong? As far as i'm aware honey fungus is one of the largest spread fungi around, its probably everywhere. The best way of treating it is to improve the growing conditions giving the tree/s the greatest chance of naturally defending themselves.

You can use the same mounts used for a the Petzl Ecrin rock, it does require you drill a hole to mount them, but this will not affect the helmet strength. It makes for a much more secure fitting and better fit. You can also get chipper proof ear muffs as the ones you have now are not really rated high enough to use by a chipper hopper, (better than nothing tho) these will give an even tighter and better fit.

Telhol the nptc units are not there to make you into an experienced and productive climber/treeworker, they are a foundation of good practice to build upon. £650 for aerial rescue thats steep, but it depends I suppose, a new lad I worked with did a 5 day course with the 6th day being assesment. 4 on course £450 each. It was an excellent course, I know the instructor well and he is at the top of his profession. He taught me, I paid £400 for 4 days and 1 day assement. I found it throughly usefull and worth the money. BUT I would'nt want to pay that again in 5 years time, especially as i'll be even more expreinced by then. I desperatly wanted to fast track my chainsaw in the tree unit, my usuall trainer did'nt have any dates for a while, so I ended up using someone else. Now the training was o.k, they taught me good practice, but I found my instructor being a 45 year who only started his climbing career at 40!! a little lacking in experience to pass on. I found that on the chainsaw in a tree course it did'nt prepare you for big tree work, many of the techniques I was taught would be dangerous in real situations. Experience and mentoring from competent climbers is the only way of becoming a safe effcient and productive climber. Which leads me to my next point re-evaluation, should be simplified and made more cost effective. maybe a seperate evualtion unit to pick up on bad habits. Something like a workshop where you discuss good practice and pick up on workers weaknesses and then concentrate on those. For exampleafter 5 years climbing you'd think most of us would of picked up how to move about a tree safely and effectivly, and each with our own style. So to take another basic tree climbing and aerial rescue course is rather pointless. So why not make it an aerial rescue day only, a simple 1 day course that four climbers or more can do at a much reduced cost maybe something like £70.

Yeah thats the place, it may be worth a shot asking for some workshop manuals. As to how you go about doing a course there you need to get a dealership to send you as a member of their staff.

Son of a gun, I don't have the Carburettor book, not that it matters as I have the workshop manuals and exploded diagrams of everything that is Stihl, apart from 441. Other paper manuals I have is Fault Diagnosis, Special tools, Parts Catalogue List and Catalogue which has all the bars, chains, strimmer heads and attachments they do. Stihl is a little sensitive about people having this stuff which is a little silly imo. I got my stuff as I attended a Stihls servicing course at the HQ in Surrey. As to wether I think the books are usefull, kind of, the most usefull are the workshop manuals by far. If your mechanically minded you don't really need the books.

I have everything! Including Stihls mediacat software I'm trying to see if I can forward workshop manuals or save them outside of the software, only I think its license code protected.

Thanks Tockmal, probably why i've not heard of it before. I like the Modern Arb, book you can flip through it and learn a little bit at a time, and is fairly easy to understand.

I tried this on my mobile, its a little dark inside, probably get better results outside in daylight.

Found a cheaper copy and what looks like a good site for books, £45 at http://www.edugeek.net/index.php?name=Amazilla&asin=0943563097

Just curious here, i'm looking at getting one of Shigo's books most likly Modern Arboriculture, I know this book. But there is also a New Tree Biology with Dictionary, anyone familiar it? Is it worth purchasing. Also where is the cheapest place to buy Shigos Modern Arb, I saw it for £89 before Xmas on Amazon now its £150!

Does it not piss you off when those stupid mounts for the ear muffs keep pop'ing off? I think its a good helmet when you buy one of those mounts which you have to bolt on by drilling a hole in the side of the helmet.

If there is space i'll be there, be good to pick up some vertical mulching tips

Stihl told me they were unsuccesfull at producing a productive 4 stroke saw, due to there being 4 cycles which made performance disappointing, as the saw would be under high load during more none power producing cycles (if that makes sense). 4 stroke hedgecutter are possible due to the reciprocating action and gearing. And blowers due to the low loads on the fan, and certain strimmers. They said they had no plans to produce a 4 stroke saw now, as with better 2 stroke technology coming through like piezo elctric carburettors, accelerator pumps on carbs, and better scavenging/stratified porting and catalytic converters.

I'm just yanking your chain mate, I did think you had a press though, could you not adapt that? I've only ever managed to remove very slight bends, anything excesive and you end just making them worse like you say. So maybe scrap metal is all there worth now.

Agree with that totally. As far as i'm aware Briants of Princess Risborough are one of the biggest Stihl dealers in the country, and have the largest stock of parts.

Treediver? I thought this was started by Treebogan, I can't seriously believe you can't find a way to straighten a bar?? You've even got a press in your workshop.

A couple of slings say 1.2m, and a loopie for attaching pulley in the tree (not essential) A light steel swing cheek pulley for redirect. But i've never had to buy my own kit, I only use the companies I work for, which is good as I get to use a variety. That kit looks solid and should do most jobs, just some slings and another swing cheek as a redirect for more versatility. I'd still shop around,

I've bent a 25" bar back to shape, but it all depends on severity and location. If its twisted bent then its hard to straight. If its bent at one point, then place it between 2 logs with bend pointing up and central, generally I space the logs about 12" apart, then stand on it. Sometimes you may need to apply more pressure, or increase the gap between logs. Stihl reccomends a mechanical press to straighten their bars. Out of 3 bent bars i've only ever got one straight enough so that it cuts reliably. And i've NEVER bent a bar ever. Apart from my plastic filled 200T bar.

I spoke to someone about using the ART cocoon for a ropeguide, they said it was not suited for this application? Can't think why though, seems as good a use as any.

Looks a nice starter kit, and I like that type of capstan, real easy to get plenty!! of run on it.