High Scale
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Everything posted by High Scale
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Yup, Daves a good worker/climber, good to see you on the forum.
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Well, I have been sent some small samples as you can see, the Mikado which is a 12mm 16 strand rope which has a nice firm feel and the Braidline which comes in 6mm to 14mm, they sent the 12mm which has a very soft feel and so I imagine very easy to splice, the samples I have are not long enough to splice so I'm going to have to buy a larger amount of one of the Five available ropes to try out. I don't know who will be stocking this rope?
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I don't, I was thinking of using Star brite dip it and whip it but have heard it's not that great.
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Crazy, the tooling must of cost thousands, they go to all the trouble of making near identical products only for them to be weaker than the original products.
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Yup.
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Nothing to do today.
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Paul, thanks, we, my fellow climbers and I, always try to leave the top higher then bring in the sides harder, the tree is a Norway Maple. Here is another example, not such a clear picture, Beech, as much inner growth left as I could manage, trying to leave as much of the top as possible and trying to find that shape that compliments the original natural shape of the tree, not my specification just contract climbing on that job, if it was my job I would have left the tree alone apart from maybe a crown clean.
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Here is a small reduction I did last year, no before shot but a nice close view of the cutting...fire away!
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I reduce a lot for my LA.
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Just to throw a spanner in the works, have you considered RVT - Reduction Via Thinning. Yes Mesterh brought it up in his post, I try to prune to a natural shape, what ever that is, thinning is normally done as part of the reduction, not that I intentional thin while reducing it's just a natural process of the reduction, crossing limbs or future crossing limbs I remove unless the branches are supporting each other and are rather large like say, on a Beech tree, removing crossing branches on a Ceder of Lebonon, for example, is asking for trouble, re-reducing trees, which I seem to do rather a lot of, I despise and consider it work for works sake. What was the question? Thinning gets my vote over reduction.
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We built a wooden half pipe back in the late eighties early nineties, it had a tombstone and concrete coping, I was shite but the other guys were really good on their Madrid/Sims decks etc, my friends brother was an old school skater even then, having started in the seventies he made it into RAD magazine a few times, I hear he's still skating the Rare Units in Bath and Trowbridge and he must be aged around 45/46 by now. Edit. Just found this, he is still skating, placed 15th hybred slalom. http://www.oldskaters.com/forum/index.php/topic,2074.0.html
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I like Bandits and would buy one if funds allowed.
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My TM sits way lower. Whats going on with the tail end of your lanyard?
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Try taking both cover strands where you marked them.
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You will find a bigger saw will pull the back down but a climbing/top handle saw will make little difference to the fit.
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I don't have a problem whipping that Marlow cord, how many strands did you take out from the cover?
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I put mine on high then push it right down making sure it's as tight as you can get it.
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I just fixed the hand brake on my truck, pig of a job, lunching it now.
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Well the Cousin site answers the question about the rope being especially made for the Arborist market, if you look here http://www.cousin-trestec.com/medias_VEdit/fichiers/fiche_elagage_uk.pdf you will see that the American rope IS CE certified and conforms to EN1891.
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Sorry Ben, I didn't mean that far from the eye. Amazing break figures Hadliegh.
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You should get together with Magnus.
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Nice, I think you did the right thing with a high but a small face cut especially with the state the tree appears to be in, all the strength is in the buttresses and I have learned, nearly to my detriment, that cutting into the buttresses is not a good idea.
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The cylinder could clean up OK, new piston and rings cost around £50-60 quid, it could well be worth saving providing you carry out the leak tests as explained by spud.
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Did you do the class one and class two for experimental purposes? What is the normal Spark breaking limit unspliced? Thanks for posting.
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Carrs don't sell it, they are my local store, Spark is not availble here me thinks.
