Weeding woodland.

[Mick Dempsey]

Any reason why you cannot use a brushcutter?

 

Back in the day I did bigger areas than that. Gutty but doable.

[Hunter]

Yes I have got two slashers already, but for now trees are completely covered and slasher can take any tree accidentally. There are no deers in the wood, I have not measured the tube length but I guess 60-70 cm is about right. I will try to get new pictures next week.

[Hunter]

Any reason why you cannot use a brushcutter?

 

Back in the day I did bigger areas than that. Gutty but doable.

yes I bought the ALDI multi tools one and have used it but it is heavy and i ready that brushing will stimulate the grass to grow more.

[Richard 1234]

yes I bought the ALDI multi tools one and have used it but it is heavy and i ready that brushing will stimulate the grass to grow more.

 

 

Fresh growth is perfect for weed killer. It works best in active growth

[timbernut]

Before even considering spraying any herbicides I would want to get to know the wood, is it old/site of ancient woodland? What other flora do you have? Orchids? Bluebells? Ferns etc? 1.5 acres of slashing won't take that long, is harder graft but more satisfying and won't potentially devastate a habitat that has taken many yrs to establish. I have only ever used chems in woods for stump treatment (painting on not spraying) except v recently for Japanese knotweed.

Top ad vice from 10bears and matelot

 

 

 

 

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[fagus]

Welcome. Herbicide is the way to go.

I guess you were understood but you might want to be sure of your spelling on some things as it can confuse. Acer on here will mean often mean Sycamore, sloppy- well means sloppy i.e very wet. I think you meant acre and slopey (if there is such a word) Sloping site?

Edited September 23, 2016 by fagus

[Paul in the woods]

Was the felling and replanting subject to a felling licence application? If so that may have stipulations/restrictions on it. If there's any rare plants animals there they should (well may) have been identified.

 

I'd also avoid any herbicide if possible.

[Goaty]

I tend to avoid herbicides as much as I can. Definitely try to not to spray before April assuming you know your forest floor botany.

I suggest be patient now and wait until January when the vegetation had died back then go in and bash it back. You will be able to see what's what and keep warm on cold days. Just start with s small session and work your way up.

Killing yourself with a full afternoon session to start with will take away the joy maybe.

A woodland we work in bursts forth with lots of growth at ground level in spring which dries out and withers away in summer.

[drinksloe]

I'd go with the above most vege should be dying down now anyway, 30 yrs ago boys would have done that by hand with a hewke and not batted an eye.

 

I have read some good answers but i can't remember anyway highlighting the fact that glyco will probably kill the tree to if u get any on it, if we were spraying we used to put a cone over the tree, but if still in tubes won't be the same problem.

 

U could spray or u could strim but if u strim i'd buy a decent machine with plenty of guts about it will make ur life a lot easier and the job a lot quickier

[dent]

My first job was working on sites like this we would spend almost all summer on brush cutters clearing around overgrown trees

A large brush cutter around 45cc with a string head on makes short work of this whilst leaving the least chance of damaging anything that area is easily doable in an afternoon like this do it three times a year if u must but as long as the trees are higher than the brambles its not a problem

We only ever used herbacide oon freshly planted woods to clear a 1 meter ring prior to putting woodchip down or as part of grant conditions in grassy fields