Best method for transplanting trees other than spade.

[cornish wood burner]

The location is inside an old victorian walled garden and access is an issue for a tree spade. I was thinking of using a mini digger to clear round the root ball and use a small manitou to then scoop up and move. Only moving a 100yds at best so would it be best to bag and string the root ball before moving or not?

We moved a few the same way. Dig down so the manitou bucket can go in level with the bottom of the root ball, then use the digger to push the tree into the manitou bucket. The bucket keeps the earth on the root ball and no manual handling or bagging, not that you can do much by hand anyway with a tree of any size. You will need a reasonably sized bucket though. All ours survived and it's not our trade

[biggarlogs]

It's not rocket science, there's an article in march's Arb journal. Best if you can prepare them for moving in advance though.

 

Yes if time isn't an issue a bit of root pruning 2 years before the move will help a lot .and waiting for the winter will help loads too.trying to move a tree at this time of year

R is risky, without the proper kit

[Darrin Turnbull]

Yes if time isn't an issue a bit of root pruning 2 years before the move will help a lot .and waiting for the winter will help loads too.trying to move a tree at this time of year

 

R is risky, without the proper kit

 

 

That's the best way , cut 50% first year and the rest in the second year. Mind you , never seen it done before. Usually no time for that.

[Billhook]

I tried to move four oaks about four inched diameter at chest height.

They were growing well around the edge of a lake, I had planted them in 1996 but they were too close and needed thinning.

I picked the best looking ones and put them into some parkland as specimen trees.

I used a Vermeer TS44 treespade which seemed to be boss of the job.

 

They seem to move well but they did not survive as they all had developed a big tap root when they were by the lake which was severed by the Vermeer.

 

I moved other trees successfully but oaks are prone to this tap root problem.

If I was going to try and move another similar oak I would put the spade in and out a year before I moved it but it must be better to find one with a proper root ball.

 

In your case a bit of investigation with an air spade might be the answer

[Goaty]

Yes oak and beech are notoriously prone to transplant failure.

As mentioned it's a plan ahead job. Severe roots early autumn. Leave a year then lift a bigger ball than the severed zone.

Prune by reducing the amount of crown to compensate and reduce stress.

[Gary Prentice]

Problem with crown pruning is there's a lot of energy stored there and the lost foliage would be producing to aid new root growth.

 

I not sure pruning is necessary or beneficial, from what I remember reading.

[Fredward]

Here is two examples:

 

First one using hessian and ropes to cradle the root ball, never lift by the stem.

 

 

A similar idea but using a lifting frame which bolts together on top of the root ball and straps go around the roots - lifted via connections on frame:

 

 

Second method requires more equipment but easier to lift larger specimens. Was taught to avoid the tree spade (would be fine for small trees like these) as they were developed for use in deeeeep soils where tree roots tend to grow down, most soil types are shallower and roots are more lateral. On clay soils the spade also 'polishes' the soil which can inhibit root penetration after transplantation.

 

I have a word document which I produced for an assessment which has more detail/instruction, PM me if you need it.

[Darrin Turnbull]

Problem with crown pruning is there's a lot of energy stored there and the lost foliage would be producing to aid new root growth.

 

I not sure pruning is necessary or beneficial, from what I remember reading.

 

 

That's what I thought , but once transplanted the tree can not supply enough water to the leafs , best to prune i think.

[Gary Prentice]

Should have said there's energy stored in or around the dormant buds ( trees are moved while dormant),

 

If water supply is limited surely there's pre-existing mechanisms to reduce transpiration. I'm sure it's better to reduce the canopy only if it dies back. I think it explained it in the Arb journal but I've slept since then