NEW Revised branch removal technique - Posted by Sherrill's website

[hesslemount]

Hi Guys

 

Thought this would be of great interest.

 

http://campaign.constantcontact.com/render?v=001h-O0HYk2hJnFw_bNMzeiDgMHK4hEx3Pl-V_l7DugEzzjEphx5cogibpfANfdc56kf-DZfqAIX_d3h5865Sd3JcVAOqOFU3aYbJ-wPbUISZX56Tgq8e4B0eZVXqmZWym9JQJ5iJ9zKD6MGZZLNSfaQNlD_p3wLHQfdb8VgPoBE18%3D

 

Any comments in particular with which species of tree this technique would be most advisable?

 

Comments appreciated

[Mr Ed]

ALways gone behind the undercut myself, for exactly the reason stated. I remember when I was 18 watching a husky 242 smashed to bits on a road 50ft below after the kerf on the branch I was cutting yanked it off me and broke my sawstrop.

[Rich Rule]

ALways gone behind the undercut myself, for exactly the reason stated. I remember when I was 18 watching a husky 242 smashed to bits on a road 50ft below after the kerf on the branch I was cutting yanked it off me and broke my sawstrop.

 

ditto, not long after I started I did an outboard step cut on a dead birch limb and ended up with only the handle of the saw in my hand and the engine unit laid in pieces below.

[Mesterh]

I always do the top cut further out, although most of the time its just one cut straight down. Except on big stuff where its usually a gob with the sides nicked.

 

May of had the odd piece pinch the saw a bit but never anything too nasty, but I think thats when I have cut through the top too much.

[raafbeard]

I've been using the suggested cut for a while now and really like it better than outboard/inboard and make limbs drop nicely!!

 

Learnt about it from the great GBeranek!! You the Man Jerry!!

Edited October 1, 2009 by raafbeard

[Dean Lofthouse]

I've done it that way on weighty stuff for a long time since I had a saw yanked a couple of times, if I want to cut infront of the undercut to get a clean flat drop on heavy stuff I undo my strop

[alex_m]

colleges are teaching to cut slightly inboard afaik

at least we were.

[geoff]

I wont ever cut outboard of the bottom cut, had my saw torn out of my grasp followed by a broken strop and me getting a fair old tug in the process.

[Marc]

I've done it that way on weighty stuff for a long time since I had a saw yanked a couple of times, if I want to cut infront of the undercut to get a clean flat drop on heavy stuff I undo my strop

 

If i want a flat a drop as possible i will cut inline with the undercut or ever so slightly behind it.

I now always when in the tree cut behind my undercut, also when gobbing piece out on leaning stems i'll cut beneath my hinge, also when doing my sap wood cuts I go above the hinge to stop tearing and getting my saw caught in the kerf of the tear.

 

I don't really see any reason to do an outboard cut? but i will do it on occasion. I rarely undo my saw as i have no fear of it being taken with the cut.

[Dean Lofthouse]

I don't really see any reason to do an outboard cut? but i will do it on occasion. I rarely undo my saw as i have no fear of it being taken with the cut.

 

Even doing the cut the new way the banch tip will drop before the butt, an outboard cut is useful to get it to drop exactly flat or even butt first with the leaf sail effect.

 

I use outboard on horizontal and use the "New" method on slighly inclined branches where it may be near horizontal by the time the bottom cut closes and holding wood snaps.

 

Steeply inclined I cut a gob to break about about 10 degrees before horizontal dependant on how much leaf is on

 

We probably have our own little ways we have all adapted