Warning to anyone using the 'pinto' canopy anchor method

[Chris5128]

Wow I've just brought a pinto pulley purely to have on my srt anchor that's unnerved me a bit now the whole concept of that style of anchor was eliminate rope on rope wear.

(Also I wouldn't climb on that rope anymore weather it would pass loler or not. It would always be on my mind . It's a ball ache to pay for a new one but for the sake of a 100 quid it's not worth hitting the deck over)

[Benny4817]

Wow I've just brought a pinto pulley purely to have on my srt anchor that's unnerved me a bit now the whole concept of that style of anchor was eliminate rope on rope wear.

(Also I wouldn't climb on that rope anymore weather it would pass loler or not. It would always be on my mind . It's a ball ache to pay for a new one but for the sake of a 100 quid it's not worth hitting the deck over)

That is the best attitude the amount of money it would cost to replace is not worth the risk with your own life always be on side of safety its your life on the line

[atree]

Try using a big anchor ring instead.

[Joe Newton]

Try using a big anchor ring instead.

 

 

Isn't it a pain having to thread it from the end of the rope?

[pie eater pete]

Perhaps a krab in the eye of the butterfly?

[Jake Andrews]

Isn't it a pain having to thread it from the end of the rope?

 

Yep, it is.

[atree]

Isn't it a pain having to thread it from the end of the rope?

 

No.just put the end of your rope through the ring and pull the rope down until it get to the ground and lock it off with an alpine butterfly and biner.

[Riggerbear]

Id be careful with that kind of advice. Manufacturers clearly state what kind of damage would cause rope failure and cause rope strength reduction significantly.

 

 

I'd agree with Ian flatters.

No offence Ian Clarke but that looks like Yale hedera, which is a 16 strand kernmantle type constructed rope.

I was under the impression 16 strand lines had most of their strength, approx 65-70% in their sheath.

While double braid are approx. 50/50 core/sheath strength.

That wouldn't pass a LOLER inspection now.

[Steve Bullman]

Could cinching up the eye of the butterfly as small as possible help prevent this?

[Steve Bullman]

I'd agree with Ian flatters.

No offence Ian Clarke but that looks like Yale hedera, which is a 16 strand kernmantle type constructed rope.

I was under the impression 16 strand lines had most of their strength, approx 65-70% in their sheath.

While double braid are approx. 50/50 core/sheath strength.

That wouldn't pass a LOLER inspection now.

hedera is a 24 strand double braid.

 

Regardless, damage like in that picture isn't good on any rope