Homemade log processor saw issues

[Chipy]

Someone's built me a large log processor which I shall be putting some pictures up of when I take some but in mean time, the saw I put on it is an ex hire one which was only £100 and its this one:

Buy Stanley CS11 Hydraulic Chainsaw Underwater Tool at E C Hopkins - Hydraulics - ampnbsp, powered, cs, underwater, greenheart, used, cutting, cut, hydraulic, particular

The way it works is the saw is fixed in the horizontal position and welded to some box section and it goes up and down on a single acting spool. To drop the saw the spool is put into float and a spring pulls it down and we hoped the saw would also pull itself through. It's a 3 tonne digger that runs everything. We tested the pressure at the saw and it was 2200psi and 32lpm which i think is adequate. The issue were having is the saw likes to stick on anything over 12 inch which then stalls the digger. We can fix the stalling issue by altering the bypass thingy. I'm also aware that digger oil can be too thick for saws but I'm willing to try it and see how we get on. I'm wondering is the saws sticking because of it being horizontal unlike all other processors where they pivot at the end?

[treequip]

. We tested the pressure at the saw and it was 2200psi and 32lpm which i think is adequate.

 

Yet the manufacturers minimum requirement is 38-53

 

Even at the minimum guide bar length you are still under power

 

Sounds like you need to cannibalise a harvester head for the motor and guide bar

[bilke_user]

I would imagine that it's stalling the digger because it's cutting to one side or the other. Sharpening issue?? Maybe an issue with the chain sprocket not being in line with the plane of the guide bar?

I had the same problem with my WP36 where it would get sticky when cutting larger stuff (>10") and would stall with anything near maximum bar length. Turned out it was a sharpening issue First time I'd ever used an electric disc sharpener and one side was getting sharpened better than the other

[Breezeblock]

Someone's built me a large log processor which I shall be putting some pictures up of when I take some but in mean time, the saw I put on it is an ex hire one which was only £100 and its this one:

Buy Stanley CS11 Hydraulic Chainsaw Underwater Tool at E C Hopkins - Hydraulics - ampnbsp, powered, cs, underwater, greenheart, used, cutting, cut, hydraulic, particular

The way it works is the saw is fixed in the horizontal position and welded to some box section and it goes up and down on a single acting spool. To drop the saw the spool is put into float and a spring pulls it down and we hoped the saw would also pull itself through. It's a 3 tonne digger that runs everything. We tested the pressure at the saw and it was 2200psi and 32lpm which i think is adequate. The issue were having is the saw likes to stick on anything over 12 inch which then stalls the digger. We can fix the stalling issue by altering the bypass thingy. I'm also aware that digger oil can be too thick for saws but I'm willing to try it and see how we get on. I'm wondering is the saws sticking because of it being horizontal unlike all other processors where they pivot at the end?

it sounds like the relief valve on the mini digger is set too high if its stalling the digger reset the relief valve to about 2500psi and try that

[farmer rod]

Someone's built me a large log processor which I shall be putting some pictures up of when I take some but in mean time, the saw I put on it is an ex hire one which was only £100 and its this one:

Buy Stanley CS11 Hydraulic Chainsaw Underwater Tool at E C Hopkins - Hydraulics - ampnbsp, powered, cs, underwater, greenheart, used, cutting, cut, hydraulic, particular

The way it works is the saw is fixed in the horizontal position and welded to some box section and it goes up and down on a single acting spool. To drop the saw the spool is put into float and a spring pulls it down and we hoped the saw would also pull itself through. It's a 3 tonne digger that runs everything. We tested the pressure at the saw and it was 2200psi and 32lpm which i think is adequate. The issue were having is the saw likes to stick on anything over 12 inch which then stalls the digger. We can fix the stalling issue by altering the bypass thingy. I'm also aware that digger oil can be too thick for saws but I'm willing to try it and see how we get on. I'm wondering is the saws sticking because of it being horizontal unlike all other processors where they pivot at the end?

 

 

How about putting a relief valve in the saw motor line, say set at 2100, a restrictor in the lowering side and tee the blow off side of the relief near the ram. This will raise the saw if the relief operates

[aspenarb]

How about putting a relief valve in the saw motor line, say set at 2100, a restrictor in the lowering side and tee the blow off side of the relief near the ram. This will raise the saw if the relief operates

 

I was thinking along the same lines, the spring pulling the bar down is all well and good but its needs some form of damper to regulate its descent.

 

Bob

[Chipy]

I would imagine that it's stalling the digger because it's cutting to one side or the other. Sharpening issue?? Maybe an issue with the chain sprocket not being in line with the plane of the guide bar?

I had the same problem with my WP36 where it would get sticky when cutting larger stuff (>10") and would stall with anything near maximum bar length. Turned out it was a sharpening issue First time I'd ever used an electric disc sharpener and one side was getting sharpened better than the other

 

It's a brand new chain so it should be sharp. I was going to try an 18" bar on it as apposed to the current 22".

How do all other saws regulate there decent etc and do most have a ram pushing them down or Spring?

[bilke_user]

It's a brand new chain so it should be sharp. I was going to try an 18" bar on it as apposed to the current 22".

How do all other saws regulate there decent etc and do most have a ram pushing them down or Spring?

 

With the Farmi WP36 the saw is spring assisted to return and it's lever operated when cutting

 

John

[farmer rod]

With the Farmi WP36 the saw is spring assisted to return and it's lever operated when cutting

 

John

 

that probably a better way to go than changing the hydraulics

[Logged On]

You're saying when it cuts, it's 'pulled' down by a spring to cut??

 

Could it be that it's not being 'controlled' when cutting - you can't slow it / back it off if it starts to stick?

 

We have a Ryetec processor where the operator controls the speed of the cutting blade on the cutting stroke via a variable valve, but the return is spring loaded / pulled back.