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Shingle making


tommer9
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That pic was while we were doing 4500 shingles for my roof. I think we would still be at it if doing them as shakes (I think I am right that shingles are cut & shakes are split). The blocks are cut in various widths to give a random look to the roof.

 

Hand split also takes more wood & is harder to fit as they are not an even thickness.

 

Is the roof completed?

 

If so have you got any pictures?

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I think its because:-

 

When cut you are opening up all the cells & cutting the structure. Cleaving leaves cells & structure intact.

 

Exactly. Also they tend to be thicker and more random. Hence harder to fit.

I've shingled a roof before with larch shingles that were cut into 8 x 1/4" boards and then crosscut on a compound mitre saw. So no taper. They worked fine and were much quicker to cut. What's people's theories on why a tapered shingle is better. I get it with a shake, there so thick you need the taper to get them to sit right. But shingles are not really thicker than a slate so i don't really see the point in the taper. Or am i missing something.

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I think its because:-

 

When cut you are opening up all the cells & cutting the structure. Cleaving leaves cells & structure intact.

 

Thank you,

Has this been confirmed by microscopic examination or just theory?

Surely even tearing wood apart is still causing a destruction of cells and fibres etc?

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This is the one my mate uses.

 

He had it made to his specs.

 

After each pass you throw the lever to change the angle the blocks sit at.

 

That is exactly what i am after........there was one down here but the mill went bust. Need one asap!

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Thank you,

Has this been confirmed by microscopic examination or just theory?

Surely even tearing wood apart is still causing a destruction of cells and fibres etc?

 

Yes it has. Think of wood as being made up of a bundle of drinking straws. Each straw has some partial blocks across it at various points and some sideways holes like pinpricks. When water gets down the middles of the 'straws' the damp environment is suitable for spores to settle and grow. Once established they can also progress to adjacent 'straws'.

 

The 'straws' are never perfectly straight, so if you saw down the face you always cut in to some which exposes the inside, allowing water in. If you cleave, they tear apart without rupturing the walls. This creates fewer sites where water can get in.

 

I've done some work on trying to develop preservatives which work by blocking up the 'pinprick holes' and filling the walls of the 'straws' with something that fungi can't penetrate. We had some success with it but it wasn't cost-effective.

 

Alec

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Re the taper.

 

These are my thoughts & not based any any thing else.

 

It would be hard to get the double or triple layer on the first row & then neatly lay the second & third rows without it.

 

I would also say that the min roof pitch would be higher with no taper.

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