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Mitox cs41 replacement


Rob74
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it should cut like any other chainsaw the diy stihl ms170 and thats only a 30cc will cut that no problem but personally f you cant get it to run right try and get your money back and i would recommend buying a husky 135 there about £190 to buy

 

The guy at the shop who set it up was cutting a 3"-4" bit of old softwood which it does fine so in his words "it's fine m8 enjoy"

Thing is I would expect a 16" bar to cut a lot bigger than 4"

 

Would it be worth trying a 14" bar? As 5hats got to be cheeper than a new saw

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The guy at the shop who set it up was cutting a 3"-4" bit of old softwood which it does fine so in his words "it's fine m8 enjoy"

Thing is I would expect a 16" bar to cut a lot bigger than 4"

 

Would it be worth trying a 14" bar? As 5hats got to be cheeper than a new saw

 

Get your money back as it's not fit for purpose. :thumbdown:

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TBH, four hours isn't long for the cylinder to bed down and make full compression!

 

I have noticed how badly small saws can run on a 1.5mm gauge full chisel, what sort of bar and chain has it got? I would say a 1.3mm semi chisel may work the best as it will sap less power - the Oregon Microlite with 95VPX chain is pretty good at not burning power by being too aggressive!

 

Other than a dealer fitting the wrong chain then the issue may just be setting the carb up right - smaller saws are less accommodating than larger ones so get the L screw a bit rich or lean and bang goes your midrange.

 

A 40cc saw would be better on a shorter chain - 14" would be right and a narrow kerf 1.3mm would be best.

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If the problem lies with the manufacture of the saw, i.e faulty material or workmanship, and the saw is less than 30 days old, then you are entitled to a refund.

 

After 30 days you are not entitled to a refund, but must give the retailer a chance to repair, but if that repair fails (and it sounds like it has) then you can ask for a refund, a second repair or a replacement.

 

If I were the supplying dealer I would like the chance to fix it first, but if I were unable to I would be offering a replacement. The manufacture (any manufacturer) however would not back me on this except under very exceptional circumstances. They would, quite rightly expect me to be able to repair it, for which they would happily pay me.

 

But of course, with no offence to the OP, there is always a possibility that the saw has been damaged by use (poor fuel management, for instance) in which case I would have to prove the case and stand my ground. This is where things can often get messy.

 

Lets hope this can be resolved between the OP and his dealer in an amicable manner.

 

The Mitox saws are "fit for purpose" and will perform as expected so there is no issue to answer there. The issue is whether this particular saw is 'fit for purpose"

 

I guess that the performance was OK for the first 4 hours, or it would not have done 4hrs work, which would indicate a problem which has occurred during use.

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I have noticed how badly small saws can run on a 1.5mm gauge full chisel, what sort of bar and chain has it got? I would say a 1.3mm semi chisel may work the best as it will sap less power - the Oregon Microlite with 95VPX chain is pretty good at not burning power by being too aggressive!

 

A 40cc saw would be better on a shorter chain - 14" would be right and a narrow kerf 1.3mm would be best.

 

According to the spec on the mitox site it will be running 1.3mm but I would agree a 16" bar is ambitious for a saw that size a 12" or 13" bar would give much better performance.

 

When it comes to the dealer tuning the carb if they only have 4" softwood available then why not take a decent size log with you so they see the problem you are experiencing & can ensure it is cutting properly before it goes back home with you again.

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TBH, four hours isn't long for the cylinder to bed down and make full compression!

 

I have noticed how badly small saws can run on a 1.5mm gauge full chisel, what sort of bar and chain has it got? I would say a 1.3mm semi chisel may work the best as it will sap less power - the Oregon Microlite with 95VPX chain is pretty good at not burning power by being too aggressive!

 

Other than a dealer fitting the wrong chain then the issue may just be setting the carb up right - smaller saws are less accommodating than larger ones so get the L screw a bit rich or lean and bang goes your midrange.

 

A 40cc saw would be better on a shorter chain - 14" would be right and a narrow kerf 1.3mm would be best.

 

I agree,

 

It seems to me too often such saws get sold with a B&C thats way too long, I watched a 171 on 16" the other day & it was painfully slow - 12 or 14 much better IMO.

 

Id also check a few other things like the chain isnt too tight, that its on the right way round - may sound daft but a simple check, that the bar is being oiled - spits out oil when revved, or the roller tip is rotating, if its not a solid nose bar. Assuming the engine is revving OK on no load.

 

However the 'customer support' sounds terrible if your experience is representitive & you really think its a product fault then you should get your money back

 

 

N

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Lets not lose sight of the fact that this is a domestic saw, and as such its quite normal to run 16" on 40cc.

Just because its got a 16" does not mean that it can only be used on 16" timber and thus be underpowered. It will perform just as well on the average 8" or 10" wood as it would with a 13". The chain speed would be exactly the same and the frictional loss of driving the extra 6" of chain is minimal.

But the domestic user likes to buy a 16", because it gives him wider options, if it came with a 13 or 14" the domestic buyer would not buy it.

 

And the Mitox CS41 saw will perform OK. And the Mitox customer support is fine.

But is the Mitox a saw that a Pro User should consider? Without doubt it is NOT, and Mitox are the first to admit this,

 

Please do not engage in a witch hunt without all the facts from the 3 parties involved, its hardly fair on anyone.

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