In praise of natural crotch lowering/rigging.

[Mick Dempsey]

I use Natural crotch rigging a fair bit. The main decider is if there is any wood/branches that could need lifting... it is a lot easier to lift with a pulley over NC.

 

If it is a big job then I plan it in my head and use pulleys and friction bollards etc.

 

As for letting it run... I would say it is common sense to get the piece away from the climber, not to shock load a compromised tree and it is easier on the kit.

 

The ground workers job is to slow the piece down before it touches the floor as opposed to stopping it.

 

I think the letting it run is the biggest factor for me. Yes, sometimes you can just lock it off and hold it there, and if needs be then I will instruct the ground staff to do that.

 

BUT and it is a big BUT, if the groundie doesn't let it run in all situations where possible, would you really want them controlling the friction when you are in a critical situation?

 

In other words if you cannot do it when it deemed a safe situation, then you certainly aint doing it when I am topping out a dead tree...

 

So your saying they should practice it even when not necessary for the time when it is?

Ok fair point.

[jeanesy]

What about the wear on the rope? I do a fair bit of natural crotch on small stuff and with a knackered old climbing line and have redirected using natural crotch on bigger stuff and it does take its toll on the rope. The heat it creates can cause som serious glazing

[Rich Rule]

So your saying they should practice it even when not necessary for the time when it is?

Ok fair point.

 

Pretty much mate yes.

 

Also following on from Dan's comment about rope type. Too much natural crotch riggin on a double braid rope isn't going to do it any favours.

[skyhuck]

Personally I just don't get all this rigging regardless of method, I use a lowering rope maybe a couple of time a year, often less. I cut and chuck or free fall virtually every tree. Theres always somewhere to put stuff and a brash mat protects patio slabs etc.

Edited October 23, 2015 by skyhuck

[Mick Dempsey]

What about the wear on the rope? I do a fair bit of natural crotch on small stuff and with a knackered old climbing line and have redirected using natural crotch on bigger stuff and it does take its toll on the rope. The heat it creates can cause som serious glazing

 

How much is lowering rope? 2quid a meter? 100 quid for 50 meters, a quick hedge trim on the way home. Just replace it regularly.

[carlos]

for us it would be very much tree dependent, from the simple old line over a fork with a crab on the end up to a mega bollard, pulleys, 19mm rope , sometimes two lowering systems.

i think too much complicated gear can slow things up as can not enough on bigger trees. i would of thought natural crotching big bits day in day out would trash a rope pretty quick?

carl

[Mick Dempsey]

for us it would be very much tree dependent, from the simple old line over a fork with a crab on the end up to a mega bollard, pulleys, 19mm rope , sometimes two lowering systems.

i think too much complicated gear can slow things up as can not enough on bigger trees. i would of thought natural crotching big bits day in day out would trash a rope pretty quick?

carl

 

See post #15

[Darrin Turnbull]

If it's not heavy stuff no problem , on rough bark trees cut the bark away.

[Mick Dempsey]

Rough bark=more friction=more control.

[Mesterh]

See post #15

 

The breaking strain is also reduced if ncr with a double braid rope.

 

Although I hardly ever use pulleys but I do use a bull rope.

 

A bollard is different though, I would never go back to using the old method of putting wraps around the stem.