New MS391 not oiling chain!

[DCS6800i]

The saw sounds like its doing its bit... see if you can try another bar on her which you know works fine - thatl answer the problem once and for all... maybe.

 

Pain in the backside mate. Would piss me off no end! I think i wouldve tried nearest Stihl dealer and see if they would stand on for the warranty... if not then id have ripped it to bits for fun!

 

 

Hope you get it sorted - you were so chuffed when you got if! You know what im thinking though.

[Mesterh]

I am not being condescending here but it sounds like either the chain is blunt/badly sharpened, worn bar or the bar chain combo is wrong.

 

If there is oil pumping out a steady stream from the oil channel when the sprocket cover is removed then it's your cutting equipment that's at fault.

 

Failing all that strip the covers down to the oil pump and check for splits in the oil pipe.

[cornish wood burner]

Evening turtle. If there is oil in the feed slot but running out the bottom of the saw then it sounds like you have a leak between bar and slot. Might be worth giving the slot a close look under a magnifying glass. A crack or low spot might allow the oil out rather than into the bar. Check where the bar sits as well, straight edge across the mating surfaces of bar and saw.

[RichieR]

Hi Rich there's a 390 here so bring yours over and we can try the bar out on yours ok

[spudulike]

If oil is coming out of the oiler channel with the bar removed then if it doesn't come out of the bar on to the chain it sounds like the bar oil hole in the bar is blocked up, I take it you have checked this?

 

Give the hole a bit of a blast with WD40 and go from there.

 

Oak is bloody hard and does leave a brownish residue on the chain at the best of times and sucks out the oil. If the saw is working correctly, you will always be able to lay down a line of oil in a second or two by revving the saw and pointing the chain at a clean surface.

 

It almost sounds like the bar is sealing off the oil channel and the oil is being forced out of somewhere else!

 

The bar and chain are correct for the saw aren't they? The bar pushes right up to the bar mount surface doesn't it. There has to be a simple explanation:confused1:

[TurtleWoods72]

Of all woods to test on, oak! It absorbs oil!

 

Have you turned the oiler up? Have you revved the saw to see if you get a line of oil splatter off the bar tip?

 

You say it looked dry, it should only be a thin film and not a river of oil in the bar and on the chain...

Photos of the chain would help!

 

Oak is what I needed cutting to clear some room, sorry I didn't realise it was the worst wood for my test. However if the chain gets griddle hot on oak, the whole saw ain't much use to me.

 

The saw sounds like its doing its bit... see if you can try another bar on her which you know works fine - thatl answer the problem once and for all... maybe.

 

Pain in the backside mate. Would piss me off no end! I think i wouldve tried nearest Stihl dealer and see if they would stand on for the warranty... if not then id have ripped it to bits for fun!

 

 

Hope you get it sorted - you were so chuffed when you got if! You know what im thinking though.

 

I'm still chuffed, in fact I've learnt a lot more about chainsaws than I previously knew having spent hours on every Internet forum in the world. Plus the numerous strip downs I've performed.

 

I am not being condescending here but it sounds like either the chain is blunt/badly sharpened, worn bar or the bar chain combo is wrong.

 

If there is oil pumping out a steady stream from the oil channel when the sprocket cover is removed then it's your cutting equipment that's at fault.

 

Failing all that strip the covers down to the oil pump and check for splits in the oil pipe.

 

It's a brand new saw with a brand new chain in a brand new bar, all Stihl 3/8 0.62 and as supplied by Stihl main dealer. No bad matching, sharpening or wear, thanks anyway. No splits in brand new oil pipe either.

 

Evening turtle. If there is oil in the feed slot but running out the bottom of the saw then it sounds like you have a leak between bar and slot. Might be worth giving the slot a close look under a magnifying glass. A crack or low spot might allow the oil out rather than into the bar. Check where the bar sits as well, straight edge across the mating surfaces of bar and saw.

 

This has been checked. My thoughts are, bent bar, one of the bar studs being loose causing a gap, or hole on bar too small for the Makita oil to flow through freely.

 

Hi Rich there's a 390 here so bring yours over and we can try the bar out on yours ok

 

Mate I appreciate it, I'll take you up on that if I can't break the back of it myself, I've got a plan, read below my man...

 

If oil is coming out of the oiler channel with the bar removed then if it doesn't come out of the bar on to the chain it sounds like the bar oil hole in the bar is blocked up, I take it you have checked this?

 

Give the hole a bit of a blast with WD40 and go from there.

 

Oak is bloody hard and does leave a brownish residue on the chain at the best of times and sucks out the oil. If the saw is working correctly, you will always be able to lay down a line of oil in a second or two by revving the saw and pointing the chain at a clean surface.

 

It almost sounds like the bar is sealing off the oil channel and the oil is being forced out of somewhere else!

 

The bar and chain are correct for the saw aren't they? The bar pushes right up to the bar mount surface doesn't it. There has to be a simple explanation:confused1:

 

Bar and chain were brand spanker and have overheated from scratch, cleaned the living daylights out of them with brake cleaner, cardboard and all manner of implements.

 

Everything has been cleaned back to 'new saw' standards in my 30 minute old saw at least 4 times now.

 

 

Ok, here's where I'm taking this next:

 

Being an engineer of sorts I'm thinking one of these things is wrong:

 

Either the bar is no mating to the surface of the saw body as suggested above.

 

If this is the case I need to check stud tension and trueness, although being brand new, the latter shouldn't be a factor.

 

Or, the hole is too small in the bar (common reports of this on other forums) and needs opening up.

 

Or, the Makita oil I've filled it with is too damn thick and goopy to work with this bar amd chain combo.

 

Going forward, I'll check the stud tightness, if that's not an issue, I'll drain the Makita oil and flush with 2 stroke mix, then refill with a litre oil like veg oil or 5w30 motor oil and try again.

 

If all these show no improvement I'll drill the bar hole out and see where we go.

 

Then there are loaned bars, new bars, dime bars, and happy hour bars all to help me .

[TurtleWoods72]

Hi turtlewoods72,

Ive been keepin an eye on your predicament and i admire your perseverance even in the face of husky biased adversity,some husky luvers seem to have a sixth sense for the imminent death of a stihl.Since you ve checked everything else out on thd saw it would seem to me the bar is the issue.

Keep us posted how u go and laugh along with the husky laughin boys

 

Oh mate thanks for your concern (and advice).

 

My shakra is aligned. My zen all calm.

 

The Husqvarna fans are welcome to chip in and advise on what I should have bought instead.

 

Fact is, I got what was going. I like my Stihl. It's wicked and has taught me how to strip down a saw and learn how they work. My boring saw at work never gave me this education, so they were worse purchases.

 

Stihl is the way forward. Master Chainsaw Tech Qualification with free practice saw to boot.

 

Gotta love it.

 

(Plus the Orange on Husqvarna saws clashes with my trousers.)

[TurtleWoods72]

I think it might be that honey-like Makita oil to blame.

 

From an Amazon review:

 

"Well, it is chainsaw oil, not much to discuss. It does its job, and it sticky and dense so it does not fling off easily. That said, it turned out to be a little too sticky for the auto oiling system of my Worx electric chainsaw. There was too little oil being dispensed through the oiler. Adding a little thinner to the oil fixed the issue."

 

Bingo.. Maybe?

[spudulike]

Makes me wonder if there is a small crack or split somewhere that only lets oil out when the bar is in place and causing a restriction but when removed, the oil freely comes out of the right place.

 

How difficult can this be:001_rolleyes:

[shavey]

I think it might be that honey-like Makita oil to blame.

 

From an Amazon review:

 

"Well, it is chainsaw oil, not much to discuss. It does its job, and it sticky and dense so it does not fling off easily. That said, it turned out to be a little too sticky for the auto oiling system of my Worx electric chainsaw. There was too little oil being dispensed through the oiler. Adding a little thinner to the oil fixed the issue."

 

Bingo.. Maybe?

 

Yes full house

 

That Makita oil is quite thick mix it with some cheap sae 30

Or a better idea have another red saw to eat that oil up :thumbup:

Seriously I hope you've cracked it now