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Posted

Hi guys I asked a few weeks ago about what product to finish a dining table with I went with dainish oil as I had a big can of it in the workshop but it took like 3weeksto dry i know its a bit cold and damp in my workshop but never had this happen before do you think its gone funny with the cold look forward to hearing what you all think

Cheers Mark

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Posted

never used danish oil, but did you put on too thick or was the wood quite green/wet - this can stop it penetrating?

 

i have found osmo uv protection v good for outdoor stuff

Posted
Hi guys I asked a few weeks ago about what product to finish a dining table with I went with dainish oil as I had a big can of it in the workshop but it took like 3weeksto dry i know its a bit cold and damp in my workshop but never had this happen before do you think its gone funny with the cold look forward to hearing what you all think

 

Cheers Mark

 

 

We have a furniture restoration workshop at our centre. Before we had modern facilities we used to have major problems with lacquers and finishes "blooming"(white misting through the finished surfaces) due to low temperatures and damp conditions.

Modern acrylic (water based) finishes are much more forgiving.

Oil and spirit finishes are less so.

Our experiences have always been:

Low temperatures and damp = problems.

I have never used Danish oil, personally.

Most of the stuff I have used has been pre-catalyst lacquer with 30% standard thinners through a spray gun.

I would say your problems are almost certainly down to the drying conditions

Timon

Posted

Thanks Timon that will be ace what kind of center do you have as we are setting up a co op at the mo we have me with my chainsaw carving /milling etc my girlfriend with stained glass and welding ane metal craft hard work but worth it

Cheers Mqrk

Posted

apart from the cold and damp issues and the oil going off, there is also the issue of what exactly is in your danish oil and the quality of the ingredients.

Most danish oil seems to be mainly tung oil mixed with a variety of other products.

 

I know that with the likes of linseed oil (also a common ingredient in danish oil I believe) there is a wide range of quality available. The cheap stuff is a sticky mess that doesnt dry properly, whereas good quality stuff works well.

Posted

If you didn't wipe the excess off with a cloth after about 15 minutes the layer can be too thick. Try to get some heating in the workshop to help with drying. Is there any chance you can finish it where it will eventually be used, which will hopefully be a lot warmer and drier

Posted

Definitely check the oil, check the age of it, consistency etc. But I definitely think the ambient temperature is the major issue. I do all my finishing in the house at this time of year. Annoys the crap out of my wife but I get good results! :)

 

Paul

Posted

Hi, I`ve been using pure tung oil mixed with turps,mostly outside, for some time now and it can take an age to dry, sometimes remaining slightly tacky for months, so I`ve been experimenting with metallic paint driers with some success.

These driers contain Terebene and were traditionally used to speed up the drying time of old style oil paints, specially when they`ve been sitting about in the tin for a while.

I`ve used both Blackfriars and Rustins which are easily available, might be worth a try, cheers.

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