Large chainsaw recomendations.

[Joy Yeomans]

On big saws we use stilhl and everyday use huskies the top handle huskies is way better than the still.

Joy

[mrstumpy]

I've Just got myself a biomass boiler capable of handling 1m long billets. I'm planning to invest in a large splitter capable of splitting large diameter logs so I'm going to need a largish chainsaw to cut said logs. If you have any experience, recommendations or advice i'm all ears.

 

I'm going to be cutting and splitting 100 tonne a year for the next 20 years as we're on the commercial RHI so I don't mind investing in some good equipment that will last and make the job a little easier.

 

I have some experience of handling chainsaws but this will be a big step up from previous usage.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Hi Mike

 

I would like to try and answer your original question with the benefit of my experience.

 

I'm assuming your billets are not of substantial diameter as they are 1m lengths and you have not mentioned mechanical handling. How would a 50 - 60cc saw sound? This would allow a 16 - 18" bar length. You do not appear to be climbing, and your emphasis was on 'good equipment'. How about a Husqy 550XP (£515) or 560XP (£620)? All saws have "issues" as do most other machines. The known faults with these are: a required technique to start when they are hot, a weakness in the brake band and they are computer controlled. I own one.

 

If you are looking for a larger girth of firewood. How about a Husqvarna 372XP? 70cc, £680 and easily pulls a 24" bar and chain (I own two) and is ultra reliable, no computers!! this is good for reliability. I have had no faults in 12 years of running the eldest of my two and no faults with my two year old. The Husqvarna 395XP was an excellent recommendation but I feel a little heavy if swinging it all day and £194 more than a 372XP.

 

My experiences of large Stihls was just that - they were still! I had massive oiling problems from new, carb problems, melting casings and poor starting (ms660 and ms250). Stihl are excellent if you happen to be in a tree or can afford to replace them every few years. I know that statement will offend some (I apologise). As I wrote earlier, these are MY experiences.

 

I hope you may find this of some use. Whatever make or model you choose the only sound advice which anyone may offer is: buy a pro saw, which YOU feel comfortable handling. There is no need to buy the 'biggest and best' (there are no prizes for going to A&E with open wounds or muscular/skeletal trauma).

 

(The prices shown are just listed on an internet search and are probably list price, they are only shown for comparative reasons).

[Mortimer Firewood]

Hi Mike

 

I would like to try and answer your original question with the benefit of my experience.

 

I'm assuming your billets are not of substantial diameter as they are 1m lengths and you have not mentioned mechanical handling. How would a 50 - 60cc saw sound? This would allow a 16 - 18" bar length. You do not appear to be climbing, and your emphasis was on 'good equipment'. How about a Husqy 550XP (£515) or 560XP (£620)? All saws have "issues" as do most other machines. The known faults with these are: a required technique to start when they are hot, a weakness in the brake band and they are computer controlled. I own one.

 

If you are looking for a larger girth of firewood. How about a Husqvarna 372XP? 70cc, £680 and easily pulls a 24" bar and chain (I own two) and is ultra reliable, no computers!! this is good for reliability. I have had no faults in 12 years of running the eldest of my two and no faults with my two year old. The Husqvarna 395XP was an excellent recommendation but I feel a little heavy if swinging it all day and £194 more than a 372XP.

 

My experiences of large Stihls was just that - they were still! I had massive oiling problems from new, carb problems, melting casings and poor starting (ms660 and ms250). Stihl are excellent if you happen to be in a tree or can afford to replace them every few years. I know that statement will offend some (I apologise). As I wrote earlier, these are MY experiences.

 

I hope you may find this of some use. Whatever make or model you choose the only sound advice which anyone may offer is: buy a pro saw, which YOU feel comfortable handling. There is no need to buy the 'biggest and best' (there are no prizes for going to A&E with open wounds or muscular/skeletal trauma).

 

(The prices shown are just listed on an internet search and are probably list price, they are only shown for comparative reasons).

 

Would you not be more likely to hurt yourself with a smaller saw?

[name_mike]

Thank you all for you comments and advice. To answer a few questions in one,

 

I have a 180kw system which is registered under district heating as it feeds two houses, One very large victorian (single glazing, solid walls etc) and a converted stables in the garden. Both are in a conservation zone hence no double glazing etc so they are inefficient and require a lot of heat to keep them warm.

 

As for the 100tonne, that not all to go through my boilers, Some is for family member's stoves and wood burners. The deal is I buy the wood and equipment, they provide some free labour and we all get the wood we need. We're currently producing our own firewood already and we're just looking to scale things up and make it a bit more time and labour efficient. Also, as i'm sure your all aware 100 tonne 'wet' is more like 70 tonnes once seasoned. Thats how much will be burned.

 

THE WORK!! - I am aware its a big commitment and its going to be a lot of work. I have an office job through the week so believe it or not getting out in the woods and doing some 'proper work' is actually enjoyable.

 

 

The reason I'm thinking of planning for bigger timber is that with the amount of firewood processors about all looking for 12" logs they can be in short supply and therefore more expensive (I'm happy to be corrected on this). If I plan for larger logs from the off then I can take any timber thats going.

 

"why not buy from an established firewood trader?" Seasoned softwood sells for £150 tonne minimum (again, i'd love to be corrected). If I was to buy our 70 tonnes of seasoned in that would cost me £10500 as opposed to the £4000 to buy in and process ourselves. It may be a couple of weeks hard graft a year but for that sort of saving its worth it.

 

Back to the original question about chainsaws, lots of food for thought, thanks.

[simsimo]

Are any of the large echo saws worth looking at?

[name_mike]

Are any of the large echo saws worth looking at?

 

Anyone any experience of these saws?

[Hodge]

Get a Husky 372 xp, hard to beat really, wil take a 15" bar up to 24". I really love mine.

[Joe Newton]

Anyone any experience of these saws?

 

 

The 620 is supposed to be a good saw. Solid and reliable. Perhaps not quite as quick as the Husqy equivalent 560xp but I reckon better suited to your needs. 20" bar max.

 

Or a 372 like Hodge says above

[biggarlogs]

A couple of weekends for in experienced operators to process 100 tons of large diameter firewood no chance .I have a hundred grand of machinery and wouldn't even try.use processor friendly softwood and maybe.why waste hardwood on biomass?.jake

[shavey]

Get a Husky 372 xp, hard to beat really, wil take a 15" bar up to 24". I really love mine.

 

this sounds like the sort of size saw you would need 70cc-80cc good power to weight ratio also the dolmar PS-7310 OR PS-7910 would work well on a 18'' up to a the optimum 24'' which is perfect for this saw :thumbup1:

 

if the 24' wont cut the mtr lengths for splitting then you will have no chance of lifting them up for splitting without a grab or army of helpers :thumbup: