Milling capacity- Stihl MS660 v MS880

[Bogoak]

I'm thinking of getting a chainsaw mill- all new setup. What width will an MS 660 comfortably cope with and at what point does it's bigger brother become a better option?

 

I've got some 30"+ Poplar to have a go at but don't envisage finding much else of that size to saw. Although I don't want to be under gunned, there's no point in lugging weight I don't need.

 

Any advice/ recommendations on choice of saws, bars and mills would be appreciated thanks.

[Hodge]

I had a 660 with 36" bar, I think that would mill 30"

[doobin]

If the saw is to be dedicated to the mill, then I'd assume the more power the better (and bigger oiler)?

[bobh]

Its a bit like Jeremy Clarkson.... POWER

I mill with a 660 with a 36" bar and always want more power on the bigger stuff but can't justify a 880 ATM.

As Hodge said a 36" bar will give you about 30" cut.

No doubt there will be far more knowledgeable people along soon.

[Big J]

If you are going to do any amount of milling, get an MS880. If you going to do any serious amount of milling, get two with a double ended set up with two MS880s. I cut some deodar cedar (one of those rare UK stems that Delabodge didn't manage to get to before anyone else) the other week - 13ft 6" cuts, 38" wide in 3-3.5 minutes. That is 3 times quicker than a single ended set up, if not more.

[TGB]

36" seems to be about the longest bar on the 660/661 to be happy. 880 will power through to 42"/48" and then some. The 880 is thirsty, especially if you don't have a nose sprocket, as is the standard equipment supplied by Stihl.

 

Regarding bars, either buy the 880 with the biggest Stihl bar your dealer will supply; it'll be 48". Then take that off before its first use and sell it on. It'll reach a better price, than the Sugi Hara, (nose sprocketed) solid bar that'll be replacing it. Typical price difference between selling s/hand but new Stihl bar and buying a new Sugi Hara, is around £170. Buying a new Stihl 47"/48" £403inc., new Sugi Hara 46" £222inc. By selling the supplied Stihl, (no nose sprocketed) bar and buying the Sugi Hara, you'll make your first profitable sale. Or just buy the powerhead from the dealer and the Sugi Hara bar & ripping chains from Rob D at http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/ But you'll not make that £170 profit.

 

Oh, and take the felling spikes off. You'll not be needing them for milling. And on the 880, that'll give you an extra 2" of useable bar.

 

Light type bars are great for most other saw applications. But for milling you need as little bar flex as possible, so when you get the Sugi Hara and you will; get the 'Pro' bar, which is solid and has a replaceable nose sprocket.

 

Also, ditch the supplied chain in favour of a full skip ripping chain. It'll clear the chip that much faster and use less power overall. Which in turn, will save you £s on fuel.

 

If you value your health, use Aspen. Hell it's expensive but you'll have a clearer head at the end if the day. And you can always work the extra into the quote, "More environmentally friendly, yadder, yadder, yadder."

Edited October 23, 2014 by TGB

[Higgs89]

I have a unused 56" double ended stihl bar for sale if anyone's interested?

[Daniël Bos]

I have a unused 56" double ended stihl bar for sale if anyone's interested?

 

Quenta costa?

[Bogoak]

Thanks for all the replies chaps.

[agg221]

I started off milling with an 064, then an 066 (ie 660) before I went to larger saws.

 

A 36" bar is as much as I would want to fit (you can go to 42") which gives 28" capacity with the dogs on, 30" with them off. Doing this, it's slow. It works very well on a 25" bar milling at 18" capacity.

 

You will need proper ripping chain, and I would seriously advise the Granberg precision grinder as keeping the teeth equal in length and angle (as well as sharp) is critical for good milling.

 

Alec