Keepin natural colour In wood. What oils?

[TGB]

I favour Danish for most oiling. But for a gun stock, i'd choose a different oil. If you want a nice smear free finish, apply the oil with a clean lint-free cloth. And polish with a separate lint-free cloth.

 

Tung oil will impart less tint than other oils.

 

There's little difference between BLO and plain LO. The boiled oil is not really boiled but has had steam under presure passed through it. Which some say allows a shorter time interval between coats. I've used both and reckon recoat intervals have more to do ambient temp. & humidity, than paying more for basically the same product.

 

Danish oil will tint but not by much. You need at least two coats to finish. Three for a good result but the first can be thinned slightly, say by 30%. With Danish, the more coats, the deeper the sheen.

 

If you want it fully weatherproof, the golden rule is:

Once a day for a week,

Once a week for a month,

Once a month for a year,

Then once a year thereafter.

[Woodworks]

To give you some idea on the colour this was finished with Liberon finishing oil.

[Stompy]

Smart work, looks cracking that

[se7enthdevil]

my side table art he bottom of page 1 on this thread was finished with danish oil.

 

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/60100-all-my-woodwork-so-far.html

 

 

i also use danish for most of my bowls as it really brings out the colour and makes it look great

[Big Beech]

To give you some idea on the colour this was finished with Liberon finishing oil.

 

Sweet chestnut colour. Do u have a b4 image?

[Woodworks]

Sweet chestnut colour. Do u have a b4 image?

 

No before pictures I am afraid but I still have some of the same walnut in the workshop that I can take a snap of later.

[Woodworks]

This was a job in progress made from the same boards.

[woodyguy]

There seems to be a lot of confusion around about oils and finishes. Danish oil isn't extracted from squeezing Danes but is a mix of vegatable oils and varnish ie a thin paint. So more layers build up the thickness.

BLO isn't boiled but has heavy metal additives to speed up the setting and yes it is totally different from raw linseed which basically never sets.

Tung if bought as pure tung does cure over a couple of days but most things labelled as tung oil finish don't have any tung oil in them at all but are varnishes.

So people are comparing oils eg pure tung, BLO, with varnishes eg danish oil, liberon oil etc.

If you're going to use a wiping varnish like Danish oil, then I prefer to make my own as its much easier, cheaper and more reproducible to make your own.

This link is a good summary if you want to learn more.

Oil Finishes: Their History and Use | Popular Woodworking Magazine

[Macpherson]

Hi, I`ve found pure tung oil thinned with real turps [white spirit will do] to be the best for me, although as said before it needs to be well rubbed in and buffed up and on light wood you do get a slight yellowing or richening.

The main problem with linseed oil is the high risk of mildew on any wood that can get damp. The mildew gets into the grain and ruins the job by turning it black.

Of the drying oils, Tung oil is from a tree nut and has preserving qualities which make it safe to be used on items that come into contact with food, whereas many of the other oils are foods and can therefore get mouldy. Cheers.

[Big Beech]

Yes aware of so called oil finish being or having a wiping varnish type effect.

I also beleive that birchwood n caseys true oil gunstock oil is on those lines.

LFO looks to have a much deeper lustre to it where as tru oil looks like a higher varnish content.

Woodworks, wat was your finishing method?