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piston stop (what to use?)


wicklamulla
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I was using the 135 the other day and the chain was spinning on tickover so I thought it was obviously the clutch. I've not greased the roller bearing so I thought I'd have a look at it and do the bearing at the same time. I used the cord down the plug and tried a drift but it kept spinning the piston no matter how much cord I tried. I made a spanner to do the job by cutting an old socket and welding it to reinforce the pins. It removed the clutch relatively easily. I put it all back together and the problem was still there so I took it to bits again and found it was the plastic oil pump drive sticking on the crank. Cleaned it out and greased the inside and it's all good now.

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I use the Stihl black plastic piston stop on small saws MS200T MS260.

 

Starter/pull cord on bigger saws MS460, 395XP.

 

Have heard of someone shearing crank on MS200T using an impact driver to remove the clutch.

 

Yup, get that wrong and you will shear the threaded portion off the end of the crank, usually happens using the gun on the wrong direction and a piston stop

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pull cord for piston stop, manufacturers clutch removal tool and a torque wrench to nice and gently spin clutch off.

 

not really a fan of belting a £600 saw with a hammer, too much stress on components imho

 

Ian

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wonder if one could remove the pull cord side casing and fabricate a holding tool to slot in between the rotor fan blades, then spin the clutch off using a combi spanner?

 

Or just stick some starter cord down the plug hole 😁

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Arbtalk mobile app

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wonder if one could remove the pull cord side casing and fabricate a holding tool to slot in between the rotor fan blades, then spin the clutch off using a combi spanner?

 

You'd then be putting all the stress into the flywheel key, if you don't break a few fins off in the process.

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