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Ms660 chain brake (again?!)


RobRainford
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Good point to make Rob.

I can see how the crud hampers movement and cleaning and lubrication helps, But from you're pic it doesn't look that bad at all just a bit dusty? I would expect it to be packed with crap before it makes a difference, like spud says you regularly see on 200 t's.

Or was it worse than it looked.

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It's a common issue. Caused by the exhaust warming up the mechanism side of the handle. Stihl seem unable/unwilling/struggling? To sort the issue (maybe the 661 was the fix, which didn't turn out perfect!)

 

I saw a post about greasing the mechanism an thought before I make an ugly looking piece of metal to make the handle stiff, I'll have a go at that

 

This is what I was greeted with. Lots of dirt and debris that would increase the effort needed to get the mechanism to work.

 

[ATTACH]151276[/ATTACH]

 

So, after much cleaning and liberal amounts of grease to the moving parts. I'm left with a very easy to operate chain break. Noticeably different from before. Time will tell if its a good fix. Should have got some pictures of it clean. The amount of black crud that came out was unreal.

 

This may affect some and not others. I'll get some more pictures to show what ive done and will update in the future on how well the fix has worked, if it did.

 

HI ROB one thing i can say is my one is good it a 2014 saw :thumbup1:thanks jon :thumbup:

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Good point to make Rob.

I can see how the crud hampers movement and cleaning and lubrication helps, But from you're pic it doesn't look that bad at all just a bit dusty? I would expect it to be packed with crap before it makes a difference, like spud says you regularly see on 200 t's.

Or was it worse than it looked.

 

Thats what i thought.

 

I wouldnt bother cleaning mine if it looked like that :thumbup: not even looked in there once :biggrin:

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Good point to make Rob.

 

I can see how the crud hampers movement and cleaning and lubrication helps, But from you're pic it doesn't look that bad at all just a bit dusty? I would expect it to be packed with crap before it makes a difference, like spud says you regularly see on 200 t's.

 

Or was it worse than it looked.

 

 

From my pic yes it doesn't look so bad. But I think its a compounded issue linked to the exhaust and obviously having freely moving parts will help. Straight away the brake felt sharper so I need to get it into some logs to see how well it's worked. Next stage would be to strengthen /reinforce the one side of the handle to decrease its pliability when its warm.

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It's a common issue. Caused by the exhaust warming up the mechanism side of the handle. Stihl seem unable/unwilling/struggling? To sort the issue (maybe the 661 was the fix, which didn't turn out perfect!)

 

I saw a post about greasing the mechanism an thought before I make an ugly looking piece of metal to make the handle stiff, I'll have a go at that

 

This is what I was greeted with. Lots of dirt and debris that would increase the effort needed to get the mechanism to work.

 

[ATTACH]151276[/ATTACH]

 

So, after much cleaning and liberal amounts of grease to the moving parts. I'm left with a very easy to operate chain break. Noticeably different from before. Time will tell if its a good fix. Should have got some pictures of it clean. The amount of black crud that came out was unreal.

 

This may affect some and not others. I'll get some more pictures to show what ive done and will update in the future on how well the fix has worked, if it did.

 

HI ROB just seen your ported 660 20" bar on the on the net looks fast mate i like the blue covers too thanks jon

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I'd be wary of adding any bracing material to the part affected by heat, as different materials absorb/retain/transmit heat in different ways and at different rates. You may make it worse...

 

If mine had suffered from this issue (never a problem, 2010 saw) I'd have changed the way the exhaust gas flows (by adding a bit more metal to the little "hood" over the side exhaust hole, in addition to the extra large pipe out the front) rather than modifying the most important safety feature on the saw.

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I'd be wary of adding any bracing material to the part affected by heat, as different materials absorb/retain/transmit heat in different ways and at different rates. You may make it worse...

 

If mine had suffered from this issue (never a problem, 2010 saw) I'd have changed the way the exhaust gas flows (by adding a bit more metal to the little "hood" over the side exhaust hole, in addition to the extra large pipe out the front) rather than modifying the most important safety feature on the saw.

 

I have modded the outlet on a couple of MS660s now and am waiting to see if it has sorted any of the issues - if it is heat causing the problem, the most simple solution would appear to be taking the exhaust gasses out away from the handle - you also have to take in to account the saw being deep in to wood as well as just freestanding.

 

I have pics on my porting thread - it was a simple fabricated piece of stainless brazed in place!

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I have modded the outlet on a couple of MS660s now and am waiting to see if it has sorted any of the issues - if it is heat causing the problem, the most simple solution would appear to be taking the exhaust gasses out away from the handle - you also have to take in to account the saw being deep in to wood as well as just freestanding.

 

I have pics on my porting thread - it was a simple fabricated piece of stainless brazed in place!

 

I'm inclined to agree with this. I have done one now and it has made a world of difference to the saw.

 

There are dual port mufflers available that have the hole in the front so all you have to do is braze a plate over the existing outlet.

 

Plus it added a bit more grunt into the saw.:thumbup:

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