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Posted
Milling mostly, I'd never use it up a tree, I'd never start it!

 

 

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Back in the day when the 076 was a front line saw they came up the tree regularly.

 

Old school cool :thumbup1:

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Posted
Back in the day when the 076 was a front line saw they came up the tree regularly.

 

 

 

Old school cool :thumbup1:

 

 

An 076 is damn light in comparison, I've quite happily done a day of felling with an 051/075

 

 

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Posted

Not sure if anyone mentioned up to now, but the big difference between using a rope and a tool lanyard is the tool lanyard is only rated at 25/30kg or so, so if it does get ripped off you it only takes 25/30kg of force to break it.

 

I would personally prefer my saw being able to rip away from my harness if a cut you didn't think would cause problems did.

 

Edit: just spotted someone had said it, but important to create a weak point if using rope

Posted
Not sure if anyone mentioned up to now, but the big difference between using a rope and a tool lanyard is the tool lanyard is only rated at 25/30kg or so, so if it does get ripped off you it only takes 25/30kg of force to break it.

 

I would personally prefer my saw being able to rip away from my harness if a cut you didn't think would cause problems did.

 

Edit: just spotted someone had said it, but important to create a weak point if using rope

 

 

On top handle saws the connection point is a "weak point" too

 

Not sure on rear handles.

 

I also connect to a "weak point" on my harness, which serves the same purpose.

 

 

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Posted

I've had a 46 hang off a bunjee strop for years and never had a problem with them breaking.

Once I had to do a throw away quick , to catch something and the Caritool will snapped.

On the making a weak point on a strop, do you guys do a practice run by cutting a certain amount and seeing how much takes to rip it?

I've seen vans get pulled out of ditches with old tattered strops and they never snapped .

That was always my concern.:(

Posted
I've had a 46 hang off a bunjee strop for years and never had a problem with them breaking.

Once I had to do a throw away quick , to catch something and the Caritool will snapped.

On the making a weak point on a strop, do you guys do a practice run by cutting a certain amount and seeing how much takes to rip it?

I've seen vans get pulled out of ditches with old tattered strops and they never snapped .

That was always my concern.:(

 

 

I think some of the newer strops have tearaways in them, but no, I've never tried it :P

 

 

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Posted

Do you ever clip your saw to the tree ? It seems like a sensible alternative to me (not that I know what I'm on about) if the saw is heavy and likely to rip something or pull you down with it.

Posted

The tear away lanyards are designed to give up before your rope system or anchor point does.

 

I have seen more than one saw ripped handle from barrel by an old school full fat lanyard.

 

Not a good place for the climber to be. Best to clip the lanyard to the tree if there is a chance of the timber taking the bar with it.

Posted
The tear away lanyards are designed to give up before your rope system or anchor point does.

 

I have seen more than one saw ripped handle from barrel by an old school full fat lanyard.

 

Not a good place for the climber to be. Best to clip the lanyard to the tree if there is a chance of the timber taking the bar with it.

 

I think I'd sooner let the saw go with the lump, than clip to the tree and have the saw ripped in half.

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