DisasterIRL

I asked on the YouTube video itself and the climber replied to me so head on there if you want a good explanation, but I can give you the gist of it. Top line is a static speedline and the trolley(blue thing) travels along that line. The other line you see that has the DMM pulley block on is what controls the lift and the drop of the DMM pulley. It's tied off on the host tree and then goes through what I'm guessing is a pulley and down to a hoisting bollard(GCRS Hobbs etc.). I think scenario they have a power unit that used the hoisting capability to lift the pieces and then just letting off the line lowers it The last piece is the green climbing line connected to the rear end of the trolley as a braking line to control the movement along your static top line. He said ideally would be controlled by another groundy but due to people constraints he took charge of it in the tree

Possibly the piece that hit, just relaying what he said anyways

The guy in question originally posted that up himself on Climbers Online on Facebook. When he was spiking up the tree in question he got to the point he topped it at and tried to spike higher only to find his spikes went all the way in. Didn't feel comfortable going any higher so set a pull line and used a 5-1 pulling system on a floating anchor. What I can gather is either the pull was too hard for the amount of hingewood or the hinge was too large. getting out of the tree before starting the pull would have kept him safe, but he's okay, just needs a new helmet.

I was recently at a stein sponsored rigging course, fairly basic as it was I decided to ask about this topic. The conversation went onto studies that where done to try measure the forces involved in negative rigging, your 7-13 times your timber weight. The studies found that very little of the actual force was put on the knot, rather it was put on the half hitch and because of that he suggested it was fine as the vast majority of the weight was absorbed by the half hitch

The cheapest, least gear method to access via SRT would be using a rope wrench and a pantin(not big into my SRT so up for correction). The more hardware you add the easier it becomes, ie add a hass and you have a spread the load further. In fact if you just add a foot pantin, using double rope and your normal work positiong method, would also be a better method of access

Some cracking shots in there, especially at the end!

I'm not sure why more people don't use ISC, we have 8 or so, most in constant use day in and day out and still work perfectly with minor cleaning. Every week someone seems to have problems with their DMM carbs, although it could just be the sheer amount of them

Sip also come in a longer leg option, 33 standard 35 long leg

Not sure if anyone mentioned up to now, but the big difference between using a rope and a tool lanyard is the tool lanyard is only rated at 25/30kg or so, so if it does get ripped off you it only takes 25/30kg of force to break it. I would personally prefer my saw being able to rip away from my harness if a cut you didn't think would cause problems did. Edit: just spotted someone had said it, but important to create a weak point if using rope

I have to say I got the SIP Innovation 2 and they are great, I really rate them, as far as I can tell lighter than the kreigers and they have a water repelling material in them, won't keep the monsoons out but really help on drizzly or intermittent rainy days. Nice and flexible too, SIP are letting the side down in my opinion as people just don't seem to consider them

First post on here, long time lurker. Been climbing for about a year now and I was a groundie before that for roughly a year. I have learned off my boss and been gradually doing more and more over the last year. Currently taking up the climber roll on the majority of jobs. Nice to meet you all During my climbing I've mainly been using 13mm Yale XTC Blaze with 8mm OP in a hitch climber set up. Rope is a bit shorter than it was in the beginning and minus and eye, so time for a replacement as we don't have any backups ATM. I have used my bosses Spider Jack with Poison Ivy and it's nice but not really for me. I found the rope too thin and prefer the simplicity and the ergonomics of the Hitch Climber. So ideally I'd want something that would suit all the above. Would considering going to a smaller size rope, but perhaps not down as far as the 11mms. Ordering from here so suggestions would be great Climbing ropes | Product Categories | Arborist.ie Consider the Imori 12mm as it sounds like it should fit my needs or perhaps some Hedera 13mm too