Autotune vs M-Tronic

[Eddy_t]

Yes, but not the newest version.

 

I did point that out with the 4th word niko

 

 

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[Pinkfoot]

Both my 441 and 261 manuals state the same thing...

 

Automatic adjustment.

Under extremely changed conditions,

Attainment of the optimal settings can be accelerated as follows:

"Carry out five uniform cuts to length under full load"

 

Does not sound too hard..

[TGB]

So, your question is would I rather carry on and do work with my chainsaw as it tunes itself, or fiddle with it and get no work done for a couple of minutes?

The manual's instruction on calibration is ambiguous. Sent Husqvarna UK an email and got some clarification on exact procedure.

The short version:

Cut full bar length timber, at full revs., for between 3 to 5 minutes, without letting off the power at anytime even between cuts.

 

Have Husky not heard of working safely? Are they seriously suggesting one wanders round/repositions to continuing cuts for 3 to 5 minutes without the chain brake being engaged at anytime? Or perhaps a spot of impromptu milling is needed.

 

Whatever Husky is actually expecting from their 'Autotune' users, I didn't wander round with a full revving saw. And I didn't arrange a conveyor belt of 15" thick timber. After getting in contact with dealer, I just worked the Husky as they, (the dealer) suggested from new. Seems to be good and have had no real problems.

[wyk]

The manual's instruction on calibration is ambiguous. Sent Husqvarna UK an email and got some clarification on exact procedure.

The short version:

Cut full bar length timber, at full revs., for between 3 to 5 minutes, without letting off the power at anytime even between cuts.

 

Have Husky not heard of working safely? Are they seriously suggesting one wanders round/repositions to continuing cuts for 3 to 5 minutes without the chain brake being engaged at anytime? Or perhaps a spot of impromptu milling is needed.

 

Whatever Husky is actually expecting from their 'Autotune' users, I didn't wander round with a full revving saw. And I didn't arrange a conveyor belt of 15" thick timber. After getting in contact with dealer, I just worked the Husky as they, (the dealer) suggested from new. Seems to be good and have had no real problems.

 

In practice, the adjustment works fine if you simply work in largish wood for a couple of minutes.

 

Not using the chain brake going between cuts isn't gonna kill you. In fact, the vast majority of chainsaw injuries(over 99%) according to OSHA are non life threatening even without PPE. The chain brake use is heath and safety gone mad in the UK, and most new folks have no clue that few experienced professionals before H&S and the guilds stepped in actually hurt themselves because they didn't put the chain brake on manually. The chain brake was never meant to be engaged manually aside from starting the saw from it's inception - it came into being to control kick back, not moving from log to log or tree to tree. I was using saws before chain brakes were common. We knew how to handle the saws, and we paid attention to what we were doing. After 25 years of using saws, off and on, often in logging, I haven't touched myself with the chain once. PPE helps, but it won't make one a sawyer by itself. Personally, I think all the PPE and H&S make people more careless and less self reliant for their safety.

[Old Mill Tree Care]

When I'm using my 540t to prune a tree (the purpose for which it was designed) I find it hard to find a branch that is thick enough for a 5 minute cut!!

Therefore after it stops spluttering from a cold start I rev it on full throttle until it sounds smooth, about 7 seconds, then get to work.

[Marc]

I've just run all our Stihl and husky auto tune saws like normal without problem.

I can't get my head round why calibration is so important if they are auto tuning to changing conditions anyway!

[Stubby]

When I'm using my 540t to prune a tree (the purpose for which it was designed) I find it hard to find a branch that is thick enough for a 5 minute cut!!

Therefore after it stops spluttering from a cold start I rev it on full throttle until it sounds smooth, about 7 seconds, then get to work.

 

Do the same with mine . It starts to rev higher and then gets to slightly 4 stroking and you are there . As you say 7 seconds .

[urbandekay]

In practice, the adjustment works fine if you simply work in largish wood for a couple of minutes.

 

Not using the chain brake going between cuts isn't gonna kill you. In fact, the vast majority of chainsaw injuries(over 99%) according to OSHA are non life threatening even without PPE. The chain brake use is heath and safety gone mad in the UK, and most new folks have no clue that few experienced professionals before H&S and the guilds stepped in actually hurt themselves because they didn't put the chain brake on manually. The chain brake was never meant to be engaged manually aside from starting the saw from it's inception - it came into being to control kick back, not moving from log to log or tree to tree. I was using saws before chain brakes were common. We knew how to handle the saws, and we paid attention to what we were doing. After 25 years of using saws, off and on, often in logging, I haven't touched myself with the chain once. PPE helps, but it won't make one a sawyer by itself. Personally, I think all the PPE and H&S make people more careless and less self reliant for their safety.

 

Well said, thinks I

[doobin]

In practice, the adjustment works fine if you simply work in largish wood for a couple of minutes.

 

Not using the chain brake going between cuts isn't gonna kill you. In fact, the vast majority of chainsaw injuries(over 99%) according to OSHA are non life threatening even without PPE. The chain brake use is heath and safety gone mad in the UK, and most new folks have no clue that few experienced professionals before H&S and the guilds stepped in actually hurt themselves because they didn't put the chain brake on manually. The chain brake was never meant to be engaged manually aside from starting the saw from it's inception - it came into being to control kick back, not moving from log to log or tree to tree. I was using saws before chain brakes were common. We knew how to handle the saws, and we paid attention to what we were doing. After 25 years of using saws, off and on, often in logging, I haven't touched myself with the chain once. PPE helps, but it won't make one a sawyer by itself. Personally, I think all the PPE and H&S make people more careless and less self reliant for their safety.

 

Whilst I agree with certain points, I think you will be hard pressed to find a pro cutter who doesn't agree that the chain brake is a useful thing to have. Mainly as it allows you to stop the chain dead and start moving straight away to your next cutting position, without the risk of serious injury which can and does occur when you trip (an unavoidable hazard in the forest environment) and either land on the saw or touch it to your body with the chain still on the rundown.

 

I wouldn't use a saw without one, and to be honest I think anyone who makes a point of doing so is being cavalier for the sake of it. I agree it's not a substitute for careful/skilled saw handling, but it's an important failsafe even for the pros.

Edited February 2, 2014 by doobin

[chazzer]

you dont have to take the bar + chain off for the stihl tune just start the saw and leave it in the triangle position and watch it dance about then turn it off wait then start it again i cant remember the exact time i didnt tune my 560 when i first got it although occasionally i give it some abuse in our big stack of pine for good measure!