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Posted

Some monster Willows on the banks of the Soar (I think) just off the A6 roundabout on the northern entry to Leicester. No idea what species but they were huge. Just while we're on the derail.

 

 

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Posted

Always put the angle cut in first then the horizontal, as thats how I was shown, depth angle etc all depends on size of tree and situation theres no one size fits all to it, out of interest do you put felling cut in above or below the bottom of the gobcut? I was always told to go below but the younger lads I'm working with at the minute all put it in above, doesnt seem to make any odds, they all go down the same :001_cool:

Posted

I'm quite fascinated with all this now, as I usually get to watch different styles from the comfort of the cab.

I must say that most I've come across do put the angle cut in first? But some don't and they're probably the most experienced?

 

I have noticed how small the angles are now from a couple of Cutters, seemingly hardly anything, but they all put the felling cut above the Gob and I've never seen anything else?

 

I do really appreciate watching a skilled man with a saw, and it really is amazing just how differently they all tackle the same thing when you're just a close observer?

 

I should video a few sometime for comparison.

 

Eddie.

Posted

I generally tend to put the top cut in first at about 70 degrees. Just find it easier to aim at that angle.

 

The exception is when doing big hardwoods or where i need to be very accurate tend to do the bottom cut first. I just prefer the sighting with the saw in the horizontal plane.

 

As for the felling cuts dogs tooth, split level, pie cut, conventional use them all. Face cuts like the humbolt and swanson have their place but leave higher stumps.

 

All the felling cuts form a tool box and knowing what one to use when will make life easier and safer. The more you know the better:001_smile:

 

Oh always make the cut above the or level to make it easier to get off the stump. Also going higher means its harder for it to kick back off the stump.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I've started putting the back cut in either above or level same as everyone else now not really noticed any difference in the ease of felling but makes sense that it would reduce the chance of it kicking back :thumbup1:

Posted

Angle first, horizontal second, just taught that way. Only time I do other way is if I'm on spikes and it's a big tree and the weight of the gob wood is poss going to trap the saw

 

 

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  • 4 years later...
Posted
On 22/10/2013 at 07:16, gensetsteve said:

 

There is only one strain of willow they make bats from I forget which it is but they can tell from the road by the colour of the leaves. It grows very straight and is planted for the purpose then harvested after about 15 years. They use most of the tree and not so much the bit near the bottom. Hurling sticks are made from ash and they are only interested in the bottom of the tree with the roots on so they can get the shape on the stick.

Salix alba.

Posted

Small trees -it should be angled cut first then bottom cut so gob drops n  zips off end of yr bar, bigger trees bottom cut first then yr angled cut down, so as cut gob section don't jam yr bar as it drops.  Those upside down gob cuts are for timber saving of value logs, K

Posted
47 minutes ago, Khriss said:

Small trees -it should be angled cut first then bottom cut so gob drops n  zips off end of yr bar, bigger trees bottom cut first then yr angled cut down, so as cut gob section don't jam yr bar as it drops.  Those upside down gob cuts are for timber saving of value logs, K

Humbolts and Swansons although save some timber is more about throwing the stem away from the stump.  The higher stump also prevents the stem kicking back at you.

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