Stihl ms 150t poor build quality ?

[spudulike]

1 hour ago, Rich Rule said:

I hear you Spud.

 

How would you suggest shutting the saw down when the kill switch has gone?  Letting it run out of fuel?  

 

Sometimes us Arbs just have to get the job done with what we have.

 

 

How about taking off that wibbly wobbly cover behind the clutch, tighten the upper and lower engine mount bolts so they don't come loose and the whole engine flaps to and fro on one engine mount at the rear of the saw and wearing away the front ones to the point you have to remove the engine and replace half the lower crankcase which is a bastard of a job as the engine is tiny! You did ask - OK to use the choke until it can be investigated but isn't a wise long term solution as you well know

 

 

[Rich Rule]

That's what I did when it happened to mine a couple of years ago.

 

my theory (for what it is worth) is the ported or timed version run a bit more aggressively and that might contribute to that screw loosen itself.

[spudulike]

What usually happens is they come in for porting and I check these two mounts as part of the service.....unlike that Adam fella you know - that is his saw in the pic.......unfortunately well beyond the long bolt and nut trick!

[Darrin Turnbull]

The flywheel came loose on my 150 while changing the clutch.
Replaced it the best i could.The flywheel key was almost gone.
It seems to be working ok .
But it takes at least two or three minutes of cutting before reaching full power.
After that it’s faster than my 200 t in small stuff.

[lurkalot]

37 minutes ago, Darrin Turnbull said:

The flywheel came loose on my 150 while changing the clutch.

How?  If you were changing the clutch properly it won't affect the flywheel whatsoever.  On the other hand, if you jam something in the flywheel to lock the engine, or use a nut gun to remove and re-tighten the clutch then it's not really something you can blame the saw for.  Did you use the locking strip? 

[Darrin Turnbull]

Nothing jammed. Combi spanner and a quick hit usually works.

[nath]

14 hours ago, spudulike said:

The weak points are the engine mounts but made worse as the owners use the choke lever to stop the saw. The bolts come loose, the kill switch not working is the first sign of an issue but most arb guys are clever and use the choke lever to stop the saw until the clutch is flapping in the breeze and the lower crank case needs rebuilding Done a few interesting mods to sort this issue on various levels of wear!

 

Is that really what happens spud?  I have found I am constantly knocking the choke on by accident with mine.  

[lurkalot]

14 minutes ago, Darrin Turnbull said:

Nothing jammed. Combi spanner and a quick hit usually works.

It doesn't work though, as you've discovered.  Same effect as using a nut gun. Which is why you should use the locking strip and just undo the clutch, no hitting involved.

[spudulike]

8 hours ago, nath said:

Is that really what happens spud?  I have found I am constantly knocking the choke on by accident with mine.  

It isn't using the choke to kill the engine that does the damage but the fact the bolts come loose and when the kill switch stops working, guys just carry on using it but use the choke as a kill switch!

[Sambo]

On 23/05/2013 at 19:57, Watson said:

Had my little Ms 150t for about a month now. Well impressed with the performance and weight ! Unfortunately this morning the metal loop what you put your strop on, popped out of the fitting and bent. Lucky the larks foot on the loop stopped the saw from splatting on the ground. It wasn't miss used in any way and I use a bungee strop. Only usual banging around the tree whilst climbing.

 

Just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem ?

 

Cheers

 

Matt

[/ATTACH]

Mine went the same way! I will say though that if you get a replacement from a stihl dealership the new loop has much longer ends on it to stop it coming out - Indicating that stihl have acknowledged this problem!