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Overloaded


Stihlben

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1 minute ago, Jwoodgardenmaintenance said:

Well I worked on new build sites for a big company for 2 years putting driveways in and flagging footpaths and road building using that method that's the way I was shown and it has always worked 

I am grateful for the positive criticism but there is also more than one way to skin a cat 

 

Jack 

At the risk of getting off the topic of overloaded, if you do not set the egpedge blocks on a haunch, what stops the lateral movement and subsequent failure of the drive? The first picture of yours is surrounded by concrete, and some kerbs. It's not going to move.

It may be the way you were shown, but it's a cost cutting bodge method, with a " well we are long gone" attitude to rectifying problems in the future

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1 minute ago, dig-dug-dan said:

At the risk of getting off the topic of overloaded, if you do not set the egpedge blocks on a haunch, what stops the lateral movement and subsequent failure of the drive? The first picture of yours is surrounded by concrete, and some kerbs. It's not going to move.

It may be the way you were shown, but it's a cost cutting bodge method, with a " well we are long gone" attitude to rectifying problems in the future

Once I've got the sets laid and cuts placed in and all sanded and whacked that's when I put a concrete lip right around always put at least 18" wide by 12" high and it doesn't seem to shift 

I appreciate you telling me what's actually wrong rather than saying your works shit then blocking me but I work how I've been taught that's the only way I know roadbuilding we put the kerbs in first but driveways ect just lay & lock them then put the concrete around the perimeter 

 

Jack 

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6 hours ago, Woodworks said:

We have 90 pages of people displaying overloaded trucks and trailers in a thread called Overloaded so how come only Jwoodgardenmainte gets lambasted for it?

My objection is the sheer magnitude of it. It's one thing towing an overloaded trailer, but to have a seriously overloaded trailer and a tow vehicle with three times it's legal load on the back is another. For the sake of saving a few quid, it's endangering other peoples lives.

 

 

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43 minutes ago, Jwoodgardenmaintenance said:

Once I've got the sets laid and cuts placed in and all sanded and whacked that's when I put a concrete lip right around always put at least 18" wide by 12" high and it doesn't seem to shift 

I appreciate you telling me what's actually wrong rather than saying your works shit then blocking me but I work how I've been taught that's the only way I know roadbuilding we put the kerbs in first but driveways ect just lay & lock them then put the concrete around the perimeter 

 

Jack 

See image on why your method is wrong

edgopt05.gif

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7 minutes ago, Jwoodgardenmaintenance said:

So since it isn't locked in I can just lift the soldiers take the bed of sand out and and re lay them on the sub-base with a bed of concrete ehh? 

Cheers for the pic 

 

Jack 

Yes, but that's more work than laying on concrete in the first place, you have to let this go off before you can compact the blocks and kiln dried sand is applied.

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Put 2 ton of sand on the truck today realised it wasn't sitting right looked and boom spring had snapped [emoji23][emoji23]
 
Jack 
IMG-20190918-WA0001.thumb.jpg.4f2a847ce2f1e2c7e258023155833a49.jpg
IMG-20190918-WA0000.thumb.jpg.46b6075d472e7e7caaca7266e954e4bb.jpg
Theres a lesson in that.

Don't boast about your overloading skills until you've made it home safely!

Theres another more serious lesson there too but having posted some images on this thread myself I'm not one to lecture others.

Out of interest, which is cheaper, delivery of two ton of sand or a rear spring for a transit and a days work lost?
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