New Member & Alaskan saw questions

[Big Beech]

Hello All,

 

I have literally just came accross this site whilst googlin around looking for answers, hope to have a good life around these forums when time allows.

 

I have just aquired a 064 with a new 36" bar and chain. I plan to hopefully, when time allows start to make some benches and tables etc. from our arisings from our tree work, i guess like many on this milling sub forum.

 

So, i would of liked a 066/m660 but price was a tad high at the moment so i got the 064. I know you loose a bit of bar lenght when the mill is mounted, but exactly how much? the figures seem to vary from 4-7" + - dog teeth.

I would like to ge a 42" bar for it, just so as i keep my 36" real estate for milling with a Granberg chain. But finding a 42" bar in the UK for a 064/066 seems as rare as hens teeth! Am i trying to be pedantic in getting the extra inches or not and if not where can i get this size bar from?

Also, where do you suggest getting a 36" mill from? Amazon have them for £289 i think, ebay also have them as does alaskansawmills.co.uk or something and also has a lot of kit listed.

 

Looking forward to hearing your advices.

 

Simon

Edited January 12, 2013 by Big Beech
another question!

[Big J]

Hello Simon, and welcome to Arbtalk!

 

Great to hear that you want to stat milling. 36 inches is definitely as long as you will able to go with an 064. I have the 088 with a 50 inch bar and it struggles on that. I did previously have a 42 inch bar, which is about the right length for my saw. If you are wanting to mill bigger that about 28 inches (which is what your throat will be once the mill is mounted) then you will need a bigger saw.

 

Best place to get your Alaskan milling kit from is alaskanmill.co.uk. Rob Dyer runs it and he answers to the name of Rob D here.

 

Good luck with the milling, don't hesitate to ask questions and make sure to post some photos of your exploits!

 

Jonathan

[Big Beech]

Hi Big J.

thanks for your reply. so even though i wont be using the extra width of the bigger bar due to loss of mountings etc. you still recomend just using the 36" bar?

if thats teh case, i suppose 28" it is, but your throat size suggests i loose 8"`s is that with dogs off as well?

 

I have had a look thru some older posts, and yes Rob D does seem to be the man!

i am sure i will have some other questions, probably sooner rather than later!

 

simon

[swinny]

Yes Rob D is the man

 

I have a 064 and love it good saws.

 

enjoy your new hobby/venture

[agg221]

Hi Big J.

thanks for your reply. so even though i wont be using the extra width of the bigger bar due to loss of mountings etc. you still recomend just using the 36" bar?

if thats teh case, i suppose 28" it is, but your throat size suggests i loose 8"`s is that with dogs off as well?

 

I have had a look thru some older posts, and yes Rob D does seem to be the man!

i am sure i will have some other questions, probably sooner rather than later!

 

simon

 

Hi Simon, I started out with an 064 on a 36" Alaskan with 36" bar.

 

You should get 27.5" through it if you leave the dogs on, 29" if you take them off. I would suggest sticking with this size - the extra mill length will just stress the saw. You could even buy the 30" mill.

 

It will be quite slow, and you need a decent way of sharpening it - cutting speed drops off rapidly when the teeth start to dull as it doesn't have the power to just plough on through. The grinder Rob D sells is excellent for this as it keeps everything uniform.

 

Opinions differ here - but in my opinion for outdoor use you want to use durable timber such as oak, sweet chestnut or robinia. The bark and the sapwood won't last long anyway, so I tend to just take it off. When I'm not in a hurry to mill something, if you leave it lying around for a year or two the sapwood rots off of its own accord. On oak in particular, this usually removes about 3" from each side, so in practice you can mill anything that starts off up to 3' over the bark with no further work. If square edged boards are acceptable, you can trim the top so that the height is within the mill capacity, then roll it on its side and plank away. The real waste from doing this is negligible on anything under about 3'6".

 

Alec

[Big Beech]

Ok Guys,

 

thanx for the answers. looks like i will stay then with the 36" bar then. Alec, interesting idea / thought in removing the sap wood and bark therefore giving more valuable timber after its been slabbed first. I am able to get some decent SC as i have a large coppice we manage, so there should be no problems there:thumbup1: also odd oak butts and yew also feature on our general stock items and some fruit wood coming up shortly and cherry.

one thing i am struggling to find though with benches with a back rest, the best way to desgin a system that allows this to be bolted on. any suggestions or pictures?

 

thx.

s:001_smile:

[Rob D]

Hi there Simon.... you can sign up to Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories and then send me an e-mail to say you have done so... you will then qualify for 10% off all prices.

 

 

 

As said stick with your 36" bar... I do have 42" bars for the 660 but only cannon and so very expensive...

 

 

Go for a 36" mill, chain and precision grinder and this will give you a good start. I have found picnic benches to be the most popular thing and easiest thing to make.

 

 

Cheers, Rob

[agg221]

Sweet chestnut doesn't have a lot of sapwood - couple of mm, which is very good for efficient conversion. Oak has loads unfortunately. Part of the attraction of yew is the contrast between the pale sapwood and dark heartwood.

 

If there's a lot to remove then it's worth using the mill, but for a small amount, I find a good side axe is surprisingly quick. I use a double-bevelled Gransfors Bruks side axe, which will happily take about an inch out per cut, so to edge up something about 8-10ft long by taking 3ins off each side takes no more than 10mins, which is quicker than setting up the mill, milling and then rolling it, twice.

 

Alec

[muttley9050]

Hi simon, welcome to arbtalk. Have included a picture of a design of bench(not mine) that i have made similar inthe past. Easy to make from planked wood and no fancy joinery. If you can make me a bench like picture 2, ill give you good money for it,

James

[Big Beech]

chaps, thank you for all your welcomes and answers. most appreciated.

 

Rob, thats very kind thank you, i will do so shortly.

 

James, i will see what i can do re: 2nd image:biggrin:

 

simon