Tips for Silky use

[rammer]

I wouldn't know about that...when my silky moves forward through the kerf i use the lightest of touches almost like i am playing a violin:rolleyes: then hit the Nitros and drag it back...use a Silky like an extension of your arm...Combine it with a Sawpod and it becomes a part of your body...A silky is a unique cutting device in that it is highly recommended that you use it ONE HANDED! cut well away from any other part of your anatomy.... Also wash it in warm water and i also clean out the teeth...a clean Silky is a happy Silky:D

Recently purchased a Sawpod,and i've got to say it makes the whole job easier and safer imo.Should have got one years ago.

[Rich Rule]

Best tip I can offer is don't touch skin with it.

 

I have had 13 stitches over years with 2 bad silky cuts. Quite a few other knicks. The serious one have been slippage in a tree due to bad weather or in one case a branch snapped I was stood on and I wazzed the sugioi (The sharpest and largest of the Silky range, might I add) straight into my forearm.

 

Basically don't touch skin.

[agg221]

Sort of self-evident, but pruning saws in general, being thin and tapered, can often be used to access a much neater finishing cut position relative to collars, or especially in drop-crotch pruning.

 

Because all the energy comes from you, there's a tendency to try to economise on number of cuts, and go straight for that slightly awkward angle. Also, because all the energy is coming from you, you can't out-cut the rate at which a branch tears. The combination is a risk of messy cuts and saws pinching at the last bit, leading to twisting and uncontrolled exits/snapped blades.

 

If you resist this temptation, and cut most of the branch off first it has two advantages. Firstly, you can take the weight out. Secondly, you can choose an easy position to make the first cut. Because this isn't the final cut, you can also afford a deliberate step, so make the undercut about half an inch in towards the bit that's staying, then the top cut slightly further out. This controls splitting.

 

I like to leave a bit I can get a hand to, and handle the weight of. Probably about a foot long at 3in dia, six inches long at 6in dia. This stub can then be easily manipulated by hand when making the second, final position cut, avoiding pinching or the blade exiting suddenly.

 

The above is classic fruit tree pruning stuff

 

Alec

[silky fox]

With a Silky Natanoko i can out cut a branch tearing a lot of the time...it's just technique.

[Mark Bolam]

Don't use them after six pints of cider.

[silky fox]

:d:d

[agg221]

Don't use them after six pints of cider.

 

Would you advise stopping at five, or going for the seventh?

[Mike Hill]

On a quiet morning,sharpen the top of your workmates Silky Saw using a Bench or Angle Grinder,replace in Scabbard and wait for their appreciative praise the next time they steady their pruning stroke by lining up the back of the Saw with the Thumb or their free hand.

[scotspine1]

if you need help or guidance on using a Silky or any type of handsaw then get out of treework.

 

Only cackhanded clowns continually cut or knick themselves with handsaws, seriously? is this thread a joke?

 

Part of the problem with treework today is that it's attracted a lot of idiots who should've never been encouraged to get into treework, idiots need constant guidance.

 

Jaime, if you want to improve safety in the industry ban idiots.

[silky fox]

Harsh......But true.