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Fitting a log burner ?


eggsarascal
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We are thinking about fitting a log burner in the lounge (we live in a bungalow).

 

The problem we have is there is no fire-place or chimney breast in this room, there is a fire-place in another room (not used much or at all any more).

 

So can i get a free standing burner and send the flu from it into the loft then do a 45/90 degree angle and tap the flu into the existing chimney stack instead of opening up the roof to send the flu outside ?

 

Hope this makes sense.

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In an ideal world you'll be fitting your burner on an outside gable wall, so can go out and up above the apex externally. But this is likely to be where the existing chimney breast is.

Things to remember are that the top of the flue needs to be higher than the surrounding roof [not sure how much by though, depends on the surrounding landscape as well as to how much draw you'll generate] and you can only have a limited number of bends....

Best bet is to ask your chimney sweep [or find one if you don't already have one], they'll give you the best advice....

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We are thinking about fitting a log burner in the lounge (we live in a bungalow).

 

The problem we have is there is no fire-place or chimney breast in this room, there is a fire-place in another room (not used much or at all any more).

 

So can i get a free standing burner and send the flu from it into the loft then do a 45/90 degree angle and tap the flu into the existing chimney stack instead of opening up the roof to send the flu outside ?

 

Hope this makes sense.

 

 

 

Well you could use 45 deg but not 90 deg, you can only have 150mm of horizintal pipe in the whole system and a maximum of 33% of the whole flu length less than vertical. Remember you will need access to the chimney you would run into to allow sweeping and soot removal, the pipe from the stove is swept from inside the stove usually. To penetrate the ceiling you will need to use twin wall insulated pipe such as Poujoulat TI.

 

The best idea is to go straight through the lounge ceiling then straight on up through the roof with twin wall pipe all the way. This is something we do almost every day. The pipe can be powder coated to match the stove and a white magnetic ceiling plate makes the lounge ceiling look nice and neat. In the loft a spring guard is fixed to the pipe to prevent combustibles falling against the pipe. A large lead slate is used on the roof assuming its tiles or slate.

 

Dont forget that the installation needs to conform to Approved Document J of the building regs and needs signing off as safe to use by a competent person. This can be a Hetas registered engineer or a building inspector if you install it yourself. Failure to get it signed off will invalidate your property insurance if you ever have a fire and you will then also be prosecuted for breech of building regs, fine is about 4.5k.

 

App Doc J can be downloaded from the Planning Portal website for free.

 

Flue exits, if within 600mm of the ridge then 600mm above the ridge minimum, elsewhere on the roof no less that 2.3m horizontally from the top surface of the roof tiles.

 

 

A.

Edited by Alycidon
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if you can build a chimney breast in the room, i have it is only 11'' in to the room, and it is on an internal wall, after about 1 hour, you go a feel the wall the other side the wall is nearly to hot to touch. so if it goes out side think of the heat lost.

 

check the planning portal

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Have you got a link for the magnetic ceiling plates? The ones we use now have to be vented and I think they look crap. They also mean you can see through to the first floor!

 

Normally you will have a ventilated plate on the top side and a magnetic ceiling plate on the bottom side. Mag plates are sold to the trade by Specflue. They are a Poujoulat product but I cant find them on their web site. If you have used Poujoulat product then they will be fine but if you have used something else you may be limited as pipe diameters are different between brands. Poujoulat is expensive but it is the best.

 

A

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