What's on your bench today?

[MattyF]

It has it's own part number 505 13 36-01 and is listed as a cup. American sites have it at $9.39 as a separate part.

 

 

Pretty sure that's the stuffer, cranks not listed ...

Conrod is bent Steve , was pretty beaten after the stuffer came apart and tore it all up, was kinda hoping you could port the lumps out of the cylinder😄 guess I'll be putting an offers on the oem one on eBay

[spudulike]

Pretty sure that's the stuffer, cranks not listed ...

Conrod is bent Steve , was pretty beaten after the stuffer came apart and tore it all up, was kinda hoping you could port the lumps out of the cylinder😄 guess I'll be putting an offers on the oem one on eBay

 

Mmm, done it once before but it isn't in the rule book:blushing: It is a little off piste:lol: Will need the replacement piston before I start grinding!

[peatff]

So what happened to the original crank? Only one stuffer had failed, can you get hold of another

 

I was reading this and thought you just wanted one side. Nothing about a bent conrod.

[Mark_Skyland]

crank is only listed as a complete unit along with seals, bearings stuffers and small end bearing part number 575 54 52 05

 

 

 

[MattyF]

Can you pm me a price please?

[spudulike]

Had a 357XP in, on starting it, revs picked up and then died completely plus it was difficult to start. I also noticed that the clutch drum continued to spin wildly when the engine died which wasn't normal.

 

The carb checked out OK, the clutch drum was a bit wobbly but the oiler pinion was obviously the wrong one as it had a bigger recessed area to accept the clutch - in this case, the drum splines would not mesh at all on the pinion. The owner had fitted a new bearing and suspect a new incorrect 3/8th oiler pinion gear!

 

From my pictures, you can see an inner flange ("a lip" to non engineers:001_rolleyes:) on both pinions, this stops the pinion going in too far and contacting the crank seal. In this case I reckon the original pinion gear had worn this lip away, had slid along the crankshaft and severely worn the seal away - you can see it is polished in the photo below with most of the surface rubber worn away. I got the saw after the new in correct pinion had been fitted!

 

This seal damage would have caused a bad air leak and perfect for the symptoms I had, it had also caused a slight seize (as in the photo) and although it was making 150psi, consulted the owner and decided to fit a new quality meteor piston.

 

I lightly honed the bore to aid the bedding down of the piston, new seal (you can see the pullers I used), new clutch drum, rim and oiler pinion gear. The pressure/vacuum test was perfect and the saw fired up and idles perfectly now.

 

Sometimes the pullers are a bit fiddly but this time they were 100% spot on.

[Macpherson]

Hi, a lovely little puller, is that the Stihl one, it looks like just the job, cheers.

[fen01]

Been replacing the bearings on my stump grinder, nothing exciting. I thought I'd replace the air filter but can't find them anywhere in internet shire? Its a danequip with a Kohler command 27 with a never duty air filter, anyone know where I can get one and the fleecy internal bit?

 

Cheers

 

Mark

[maria warwick]

Hi….. I have a TimberPro multi tool ( don't laugh ) and it has been a bit of a pain to start it the last 3 months. When you pull the starter cord it will try and yank your arm off. It also refuses to stop running after starting , unless you rev the engine. Other than that , it has been sound .

I kinda suspect a timing issue ??

 

I took the flywheel off to check the flywheel key , for shear , but it was fine.

There are some deposits in the spark plug , not sure what.

Maybe there is too much oil in the mix , but I am pretty keen in that respect , making it " dieseling".

It seems quite a high compression.

52cc engine.

 

Any ideas anyone ????

[wisecobandit]

Hi….. I have a TimberPro multi tool ( don't laugh ) and it has been a bit of a pain to start it the last 3 months. When you pull the starter cord it will try and yank your arm off. It also refuses to stop running after starting , unless you rev the engine. Other than that , it has been sound .

I kinda suspect a timing issue ??

 

I took the flywheel off to check the flywheel key , for shear , but it was fine.

There are some deposits in the spark plug , not sure what.

Maybe there is too much oil in the mix , but I am pretty keen in that respect , making it " dieseling".

It seems quite a high compression.

52cc engine.

 

Any ideas anyone ????

Does usually tend to be a bit of a timing issue but also if its overloading with fuel (ie to rich or to much choke) can make them hard to pull over.

As a matter of interest what colour is the sparkplug when you pull it? Deposits would certainly mean rich or to much oil as a rule.