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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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We were in Topsham this morning so took the back lanes in.....and out :thumbup: and Rich......not on a sunny day, only when it is cold, nice to see you back, been quiet, hope all is well with you!

 

Thanks Steve, doing ok, been on the machines rather than tools this week. Have been lurking around just been tired and in bed early, restless nights etc.

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never heard of Foley Rich.

If you mean Fowey then you are a man after my own heart. Fowey is our favourite place.

 

How are you keeping?

 

Stupid auto text. Seen a farmhouse that's available to rent for a week in November. Plus its near the sea. Just be nice to go away for a week away from everything. Not had a proper holiday for qbout ten years.

 

So after this summer is done we going.

 

I'm doing ok. Just getting into a routine and most app are afternoon so get some hours work in. Only once every few days.

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Use Oregon fuel line instead then, there's lots of sizes

 

 

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Need to get the diameter just right though Eddy, both internal and external, as on these saws the impulse hose sits IN the pot end, and OVER the air box spigot.

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Need to get the diameter just right though Eddy, both internal and external, as on these saws the impulse hose sits IN the pot end, and OVER the air box spigot.

 

 

Callipers

 

 

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Callipers

 

 

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Indeed, although said on its own it sounds like a swearword!

 

8mm OD, 5MM ID. Oregon part 07-260 at around £22 per 2ft roll, from which you could cut around 300 huskie impulse tube worth around £1500.

 

Not many small engine repairers would carry that size of fuel line in stock though.

 

I will still stick with the genuine part though, even though it splits with age. No guarantee that the oregon stuff will not harden that close to the pot.

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Indeed, although said on its own it sounds like a swearword!

 

8mm OD, 5MM ID. Oregon part 07-260 at around £22 per 2ft roll, from which you could cut around 300 huskie impulse tube worth around £1500.

 

Not many small engine repairers would carry that size of fuel line in stock though.

 

I will still stick with the genuine part though, even though it splits with age. No guarantee that the oregon stuff will not harden that close to the pot.

 

 

My local dealer has most sizes in, and I have used Oregon pipes on my 090, 051 and a few others without them shrivelling, hardening or melting. The 090 has an impulse line for the oiler from the crank which is a metal attachment point that heats up.

 

 

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Well, I've just gained another saw, stihl 041av (points ignition), so over the coming weeks it'll have a new full wrap handle, fuel lines, carb kit, air filter, dogs and chain. Smokes like hell currently and won't idle for long (which I think is an overly retarded ignition) but after I reconnected the throttle linkage it revved up nicely.

I've also found out every bloke in Essex sounds like Geoff!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
-friends Husky 142 with an oiling problem.

 

Stripped the oil pump and cleaned it,... checked that the tank vent wasn't blocked.

 

But when I ran the saw it still wasn't oiling properly, on closer inspection oil was coming out of the tank vent.

 

Has any one else seen this? Is something missing, like a non return valve, one's not shown on the spares diagram?

 

Yeah, you're missing a brass plug

 

...I assume the brass plug goes in the vent orifice under the oiler plate (bar side)...

 

Parts and Diagrams for Husqvarna 142 e (2006-12)

 

Can't see on the spares diagram.

 

It's part 545033501 that you need, it has a plug in a pipe

 

There is a rubber pipe missing from the pump up to the oiler slot in the cover so it feeds to the hole in the bar unless you have just shown a picture of it before you put it back in. Mine had got dislodged and was letting oil run out down the back of the cover instead of feeding it to the bar.

 

-the oiling mystery continues, I ordered the vent hose (which turned up today), it's identical to the one already in the saw. A nylon pipe with a spring pin in one end, no non-return valve.

 

-and I don't think there is a rubber pipe missing from the pipe to the oiler slot, as I'm pretty sure this saw doesn't have that, wasn't there when I took it apart, and also isn't shown on the parts diagram.

 

I'm still at a bit of a loss as to why this isn't working. Tomorrow I'll try it again but 'prime' the oiler 1st, and ensure the vent pipe is above the oil level.

 

I might open up the 'filter' spring on the oil inlet to allow oil to flow to the pump more easily, but I shouldn't really need to do that as it must have worked before.

 

Findings to follow.

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