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On my benchs, putting a crank in my case 580f digger, putting a crank in a 084 stihl, old one has a hairline crack in the web next to the crankpin! got a crank to put in my MS660, clutch end snapped off! A MS440 needs a piston kit 3 044s that need piston kits, a MS660 needs a piston kit, my missus MS170 needs rings low on compression, huskey 281 needs some helicoils, 2 024 stihls need putting back together and one 026, 2 650 Pioneers need carb kits, 2 danarms need rebuilding, a Canadian PM340 needs an exhaust anyone out there got one? and a customers dolmar ps52. these are just the ones on the benches, lots more on shelves I just love chainsaws,:thumbup:

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Armchair Ed’s defender 110 tipper


Well it’s not on the bench but the offside drive flange and CV joint needed replacing.


Before you come over all “it’s a landrover it’s supposed to be broken” the incident that caused this minor battle scar would have had a lesser vehicle screaming for mercy. :001_tt2:



Repair time, a leisurely morning including collecting parts and a sit down breakfast, we likes a sit down breakfast.:thumbup:

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It's not my saw, it is another members - year - 2007, he got it secondhand and it had a bit of a life and he cleaned it up but to be honest, it looks in good condition - little paint wear on front and underneath, clean plastic and carb etc.


He is a lucky man as there are no MS880 aftermarket kits, even the piston on its own is £110 so to have the bore clean up like this saved a £400 OEM P&C kit:thumbup:


It will run again and will post the final compression after a bit of a run! Will make sure it doesn't go bang again which is equally as important as a good clean bore.


One very big saw:thumbup1:


So I presume you used an OEM piston? Aftermarket ones are available but the rumour is they don't contain the steel heat disc that the OEM ones do and under heavy use you may burn a hole through the top of the piston!


If the saw is a 2007 model it would use the 1124 030 2007 piston which Mister Solutions have at £78.99 excl VAT (£94.79 incl).


If the saw was a 2009 or newer model it would use the 1124 030 2002 piston which Mister Solutions have at £92.95 excl VAT (£111.54 incl).

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Vac and pressure testing a Stihl 024. Clamp a piece of rubber between the cylinder and muffler. I used one of the various aluminium flanges I have on the intake to clamp another piece of rubber, with 3/8" drive sockets as spacers. You can use the carb as a spacer but for this model you would have to take off the pump side of the carb to enable you to gain access to the impulse tube through which I apply the pressure/vacuum.


Vaccum test first. This test is important because oil seals tend to fail when subjected to a vacuum. Which means the oil seal lips lift away from the crankshaft during the pistons induction stroke when there is no internal counterpressure. It is possible a pressure test alone could not detect this.

Apply approx 15 inHG vacuum. I leave for a couple of minutes then return and rotate the crank slowly several times. Shouldn't loose any vacuum. However, the Stihl literature is a lot more relaxed with limits calling for only 20 seconds to be required for the test and then conclude the crankcase is airtight.


Pressure test. Apply approx 7 psi again leave for a couple minutes etc


The saw past both tests.






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Splitting the case on a Husky 61.


Remove all screws and dowel pins. Clutch side using homemade puller/pusher. Secure using bar nuts and any neccessary spacers on the bar studs.


Flywheel side. Push out crank using homemade jig and big clamp. Use block of wood with countersunk hole to protect crank from "mushrooming".


If a bearing is left in the case I use a vice and a socket of size such that it contacts the outer race of the bearing. If a bearing is left on the crank I use one of those el cheapo bearing pullers. Job takes less than the time it takes to post this.:001_smile:





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Using my patented cocktail of chemicals :001_tongue:


So Megatron what is this patented cocktail or would you have to kill anyone you told. I have had little luck in getting hold of decent strength hydrochloric acid. Most of the patio cleaner sold wouldn't hurt you if you put in on your fish and chips. I've been using some industial toilet cleaner which has a reasonable HCl concentration but some other things added.However the label has faded too much to be able to read. I normally heat the cylinders first on top of the Rayburn then take them outdoors to treat. The heat definitely helps with these weaker acids.


Note to anyone who hasn't cleaned cylinders like this before. WEAR GOGGLES (Full face shield better) plus rubber gloves and make sure any other skin is covered up. Also have some weak bicarbonate of soda solution to hand and a bucket of clean water. Don't rely on getting them after it goes wrong as you could well be in too much pain or lacking the ability to see well enough to do much.Other than that enjoy saving lots of money on a new cylinder. :thumbup:


PS Excellent case splitting pics

Edited by Maico490
speeling !
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