What's on your bench today?

[Muddy42]

On 05/02/2024 at 11:35, Muddy42 said:

 

Right so it is leaking out of the clutch side crank seal.  This is a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AVS.  Other than this, the saw runs well, has compression and piston looks good, so I would like to try and save it.  I have not replaced seals before so any advice gladly received.  Is it possible to replace these seals without cracking the case?  I don't like the look of the ridge (in the photo below) that you need to get the seal over. Ideally I'd like to replace both seals and buy a flywheel puller for the other side.  Thanks

 

 

Just as an update to this seal leak, I'm afraid to say this chainsaw is RIP and sold for parts on Ebay (its unbelievable what people will pay).  I got the clutch-side seal replaced fine, but the flywheel-side simply would not seal.  It was leaking on the outside of the seal where it meets the metal of the body. On inspection, I found a chip and crack in the metal of the saw body.  I swear this is an old problem (covered by dirt) and not caused by me pulling out the seal. I probably could have bodged some kind of repair with epoxy, but I would never really be happy with it. Its frustrating that I wasted money on seals, but I learned a bit more about saw disassembly. I've bought a three year old 261, so now I need to learn about coping with Mtronic!

 

[pleasant]

Your should get a few quid back from the 028 as parts for those are getting rare and they are a popular collectors saw...and still a good saw for hobby/occasional/demo use.

 

When i got mine for my collection it needed a brake band, but they are obsolete and are rare as hens teeth as they did used to break quite often. I found one on the bay and had to pay over 20 quid just for the band

 

I still need a better condition orange air filter casing for mine as it has a small bit of plastic missing from the one on it on the lower part where it curves over the rear handle....

 

 

Edited February 16 by pleasant

[Muddy42]

16 hours ago, pleasant said:

Your should get a few quid back from the 028 as parts for those are getting rare and they are a popular collectors saw...and still a good saw for hobby/occasional/demo use.

 

When i got mine for my collection it needed a brake spring but they are obsolete are rare as hens teeth as they did used to break quite often. I found one on the bay and had to pay over 20 quid just for the band

 

I still need a better condition orange air filter casing for mine as it has a small bit of plastic missing from the one on it on the lower part where it curves over the rear handle....

 

 

 

Great, its strange how saws you have had for years and only thought of as a workhorse become collectable. Hopefully someone will be able to fix the metal case. Everything else works fine.

[Mik the Miller]

Been offered a damaged (seller thinks the piston has a hole in it) Stihl 391.

I was looking for a Meteor piston rings and pot ...   but they don't seem to exist ??

 

[peatff]

18 minutes ago, Mik the Miller said:

Been offered a damaged (seller thinks the piston has a hole in it) Stihl 391.

I was looking for a Meteor piston rings and pot ...   but they don't seem to exist ??

 

Better avoided anyway in my opinion🙃

[Muddy42]

The 391 are the "farm" or "semi-pro" types of Stihl saw.  I had a play with one recently and didn't really like it - heavy but not with the power that I'd expect from that weight. Also I think they are all the less robust and difficult to work on clamshell design.   So personally I wouldn't spend hundred on a new cylinder and parts, even Meteor.

[openspaceman]

2 hours ago, Mik the Miller said:

Been offered a damaged (seller thinks the piston has a hole in it) Stihl 391.

I was looking for a Meteor piston rings and pot ...   but they don't seem to exist

First heed @peatff and @Muddy42 as clamshell designs are a pain to work on. Second it's one thing repairing a saw you like but another with an unknown fault that's on offer but I'm a sucker for that.

 

If you do take it on then establish what is wrong before looking for parts, dlastore.com was my source for meteor pistons but take a few days to arrive from Greece and always check the price of OEM first, L&S will get them even if on back order.

[jimug]

Hello! Following some good advice from @spudulike @adw and @Stubby to not bother doing anything with a Husq 340 just because it was cheap, I failed the weakness test and got hold of an 034 because it was 'really' cheap and didn't 'look' in bad nick at all. Was hoping it'd be a shot fuel line or similar. It's a piston scored on the exhaust side only, and a small amount of transfer inside the cylinder (to my eyes anyway, I had never seen inside one until I looked at this one)... plan is to put an aftermarket cylinder and piston on it, and possibly the crankshaft oil seals since they come with the kit, and see how it goes. If I learn something about chainsaws and engines as a result I'll be happy...

[Stubby]

4 hours ago, jimug said:

Hello! Following some good advice from @spudulike @adw and @Stubby to not bother doing anything with a Husq 340 just because it was cheap, I failed the weakness test and got hold of an 034 because it was 'really' cheap and didn't 'look' in bad nick at all. Was hoping it'd be a shot fuel line or similar. It's a piston scored on the exhaust side only, and a small amount of transfer inside the cylinder (to my eyes anyway, I had never seen inside one until I looked at this one)... plan is to put an aftermarket cylinder and piston on it, and possibly the crankshaft oil seals since they come with the kit, and see how it goes. If I learn something about chainsaws and engines as a result I'll be happy...

Don't put a new pot and piston on it until you have determined what caused it to nip up in the first place . If it was an air leak and you don't fix it you will be back to square one again .

[spudulike]

If the fitted cylinder is OEM and not too bad, I would always try to salvage it and fit a decent quality aftermarket piston if one is available.

Take note of Stubbys advice, no point fitting new parts until a vac/pressure check is done and the fuel system is checked out and adjusted correctly after fitting the new parts so the saw isn't over revving.