What's on your bench today?

[tomlt]

 

So Phil the chainsaw has been getting ever more difficult to start, from previous investigation i knew that the piston was a little scored and that the cylinder might be showing some signs of wear. I finally deviced to treat him to a new piston from meteor. Well you can see the old one has been slapping around a bit, what i wasn't expecting was the gudgeon pin to be siezed in the piston, it took a fair amount of persuasion to remove, the piston must have been cocked because it wouldn't move on the end of the con rod, cue new small end bearing to accompany piston. Got him rebuilt tonight and he worked right away, a little easier to pull over and running so much better! Just need to start prepping some logs for winter to run him in gently.

 

I must also say a big thanks to ADW for sourcing me the swed-o-matic clutch cover in the photo, a lick of paint and its a pretty good match!

 

Cheers, Tom.

 

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

[spudulike]

[ATTACH]187711[/ATTACH][ATTACH]187712[/ATTACH][ATTACH]187713[/ATTACH][ATTACH]187714[/ATTACH][ATTACH]187715[/ATTACH][ATTACH]187716[/ATTACH]

 

So Phil the chainsaw has been getting ever more difficult to start, from previous investigation i knew that the piston was a little scored and that the cylinder might be showing some signs of wear. I finally deviced to treat him to a new piston from meteor. Well you can see the old one has been slapping around a bit, what i wasn't expecting was the gudgeon pin to be siezed in the piston, it took a fair amount of persuasion to remove, the piston must have been cocked because it wouldn't move on the end of the con rod, cue new small end bearing to accompany piston. Got him rebuilt tonight and he worked right away, a little easier to pull over and running so much better! Just need to start prepping some logs for winter to run him in gently.

 

I must also say a big thanks to ADW for sourcing me the swed-o-matic clutch cover in the photo, a lick of paint and its a pretty good match!

 

Cheers, Tom.

 

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

 

 

Yup, ADW is another Arbtalk Gent:thumbup:

 

That piston of yours looks like it has had a bit of detonation to its crown, it is usually caused by the ignition being too advanced but these older saws have fixed ignition advance at around 19deg so unlikely to be that - perhaps just old age!

[tomlt]

Yup, ADW is another Arbtalk Gent[emoji106]

 

That piston of yours looks like it has had a bit of detonation to its crown, it is usually caused by the ignition being too advanced but these older saws have fixed ignition advance at around 19deg so unlikely to be that - perhaps just old age!

Keen eye Spud!

 

Yep the top of that piston is rather well pitted, but only really around the very edges, I do wonder if it has been cooked in the past and has weakened the piston structure, the edge of the piston seems "crumbly" if you know what I mean.

 

I've had the flywheel off so I'm confident the keyway is good and the timings as per factory (asuming no ones messed with it previously). I'll keep an eye on things as I run it back in.

 

Cheers, Tom.

 

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

[spudulike]

Had a "body" of a 372XP in, this is typical of much of the work I get in. A Arb guy has picked up a couple of dead 372XPs, both badly seized and in a sad state of repair. I get both top ends and the best bottom end and a few bits and pieces.

 

I choose the best top end and put it through the cleaning process and am happy with the results. The first pic shows two thick smears of piston aluminium bonded to the Nikasil plating on the cylinder. It looks as bad as it can get but am confident I can clean it.

 

The second image shows the cleaned and completed cylinder - looks very good IMO:thumbup:

[spudulike]

The same 372XP.... It arrived with the top end missing and had been stored in less than favourable conditions so the main bearings were gritty and notchy when turned.

 

On consultation with the customer, we decided to fit new mains so went about splitting the cases, removing the crank and fitting new mains and seals.

 

First pic is the home made splitter being used to separate one side of the crank. It is attached to the bar mount and a bolt used to push against the crankshaft - very heavy, basic and effective.

 

The next shot shows the crankshaft being pushed out with the purpose made Husqvarna tool - again, simple and effective. You can also use a G clamp and a custom made shoe as I did before I had this splitter!

 

Once split and disassembled, the bearings are driven out with a big G Clamp and inserted in a similar way.

 

The bearings felt really bad when in place but freed a little once out which is typical.

[spudulike]

Got a T540XP in which is poor running, having just received the new interface kit for Autotune machines, I plugged it in and it showed a code 017 which comes up as a possible seize.

 

I am currently stripping the saw to see what gives. The beauty with this interface kit is that you can test the saws control systems, update the firmware and if the machine has had major work, can reset the machine back to factory defaults.

[wisewood]

Got a T540XP in which is poor running, having just received the new interface kit for Autotune machines, I plugged it in and it showed a code 017 which comes up as a possible seize.

 

I am currently stripping the saw to see what gives. The beauty with this interface kit is that you can test the saws control systems, update the firmware and if the machine has had major work, can reset the machine back to factory defaults.

 

Bet that cost a pretty penny Steve

[spudulike]

Bet that cost a pretty penny Steve

 

Got to keep up to date with technology and it means that I can reset Husky auto-tunes if they play up.

Interesting on the carbs as there is an audible click movement on the H&L screws and it allows to update saw firmware and reset to default - all good stuff:thumbup:

[Eddy_t]

Have you plugged the ported 560 you did into it?

[MattyF]

Had it plugged in at the dealers , saw was confused!! Massively over fuelling ....but that could of been a number of things ie the port work, have changed a few bits around the carb as was concerned about air leaks it could do with a new boot really as well, on inspection it looks ok but there could be an air leak still there , saws still running and absolutely mental although sporadically over idles I'm just not using it for heavy ringing up like over 10 litres of fuel a day jobs like I did with my standard 560 last week and it seems good.