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Chain Sharpener?


Big T
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Do chains need removing to be sharpened using an electric sharpener? Interested in one for like what others have said mullered chains that have hit all sorts.

 

Depends which sort of sharpener you get. Rob's one is on the bar; some types are freehand (particularly the very cheap ones) so it doesn't matter, others are bench mounted (these ones usually use a large diameter wheel and cut on the side face, rather than small stones that cut on the diameter) and need the chain off the bar.

 

Alec

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i,ve just ordered one but dropped a clanger as i,ve paid £63 did,nt read the post propper £45:confused1: forgot to order some stones too" silly me impulse buying again:blushing::blushing:trying to keep up with the big boys but as i only chomp up wood for my burner i get all matter of metals n stone in my firewood even had a drainpipe in piece once nails brackets etc so will come in handy as i can run it off my jeep battery @ my plot

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Some are exactly the same machines, like Clarke & Faithful, all made in the same place with a different name on it. Have a look around you will see yourself.

They all work, cheap ones may have a little play but some expensive ones can also!

I seen an auto feed machine at a local dealers that was burning every time, wrecked everyones chains but of course they would go back to have it resharpened!

With care a cheap one would work & last, but you probably get what you pay for.

Lidl has done them in the past for £19.95 and they work, subscribe to their news letter and keep an eye out

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I recon if its for a chainsaw then use a file, as grinders will usually heat up the chain links and harden them, this means you cant sharpenen them well with a file in the wood or on site. if its for harvester chains then get an origon, they work really well and are very quick. I can do about 10 - 20 harvester chains per hour, sometimes taking up to 4mm off where the chain has been damaged. the grinding wheels last well and its easy to use. Not cheap but very price worthy especially if you run harvesters.

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I recon if its for a chainsaw then use a file, as grinders will usually heat up the chain links and harden them, this means you cant sharpenen them well with a file in the wood or on site. if its for harvester chains then get an origon, they work really well and are very quick. I can do about 10 - 20 harvester chains per hour, sometimes taking up to 4mm off where the chain has been damaged. the grinding wheels last well and its easy to use. Not cheap but very price worthy especially if you run harvesters.

 

This is true but only if you are doing it wrong, better technique prevents hardening.:thumbup1:

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I went at a mullered chain with a bench griner because I was having a bad day and also to see what the effect was when the teeeth were blue. The chain held its edge alot longer on the saw but was a pita to sharpen by hand. But if you always use a grinder then makes no difference after about 4 bench grinds you start to get through the case hardening. I find the stihl chain a bit soft when new anyway

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