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The next step from prussic


swinny
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Don't know why your worried about it rupe, i'm sure if someone climbed on a hc, witout a hitch they'd soon know about it,

I think everyone knows it's just a pully, but it does keep everything nice and tidy place. for exstend briges, redirects, same as the lockjack, just have to be careful you don't pull on the running end when you unclip or your LJ goes wizzing up the line,:blushing:

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Don't know why your worried about it rupe, i'm sure if someone climbed on a hc, witout a hitch they'd soon know about it,

I think everyone knows it's just a pully, but it does keep everything nice and tidy place. for exstend briges, redirects, same as the lockjack, just have to be careful you don't pull on the running end when you unclip or your LJ goes wizzing up the line,:blushing:

 

exactly, this is what i said at the start :

 

"what i'm thinking of is what friction hitch/setup to go for"

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what ever VT or system any one uses, does not make them a faster climber.

Efficiency Efficiency Efficiency is what makes a faster climber

 

no but these things are out there to help and help you to become more efficient...... i don't want to behip thrusting all the time.... all that exertion when there are systems out there to provide less friction etc..... whats the point being pre historic??

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I think its worrying that people are referign to the Hitch climber as a climbing method. Its just a pulley. The rapide is for rigging or speedlines etc. and the other is for a hitch tender.

 

Its the hitch that makes the system, and a VT can be tied using almost any pulley currently available. The next step from a prussik is possible a blakes, or a pulley assisted prussik/blakes, then maybe a distel/michogan/helical/VT. MAybe after trying all of those then a hitch climber could be used to give further aplications to which ever system is now prefered.

 

You dont climb on a hitch climber, you climb on a friction hitch and some use a pulley to tend them and one of the pulleys available is called a hitch climber.

 

dam strait, the hitch climber only allows you to work the prussik / whatever one handed

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Just a quick comment. You can use all versions of HC as part of a friction hitch based work positioning system. For those climbers using a low 'base friction' hitch, such as a well configured VT, and who have either an instinctive or acquired sense for these things, the increased efficiency of the HC Rapide will be very noticeable.

 

The whole philosophy behind the HC was to try to 'normalise' hitch function as far as possible across all work, hauling and rescue situations. Reducing friction as the rope fairleads into the hitch is one way to help achieve this goal. Sheave efficiency can be very important here. Rounded edges and the correct profiling of the side plates also helps.

 

If you have the time to wade through all the text, much of this type of thinking is outlined in the 'Hitch Climbers Guide to the Canopy', a download from the Treemagineers site (treemagineers.com).

 

Sure enough, the HC can be 'just a pulley'. But it can also be more than that if you choose to explore more than just the basics.

 

Chris

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Don't know why your worried about it rupe, i'm sure if someone climbed on a hc, witout a hitch they'd soon know about it,

I think everyone knows it's just a pully, but it does keep everything nice and tidy place. for exstend briges, redirects, same as the lockjack, just have to be careful you don't pull on the running end when you unclip or your LJ goes wizzing up the line,:blushing:

 

Ok, maybe I'm not overly worried as such, just want to keep things in perspective.

Edited by Rupe
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There are plenty of hitched that can be used like a prussic without the need for a pulley, some can even be tended one handed. I have a Howard hitch with a knut finish on one of my ropes, it works really well. I have posted it on here before.

 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

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many of the trees i do are well over 50ft:001_tt2:

 

so no i dont know that most of the trees I will work are below 50!:lol:

 

Yes but you are an arb God who no one would dare ask to work on the normal sub 50 foot trees that are the bread and butter of us other meer mortal tree cutters.

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the next step from the prussic, it's a blake. It's a lovely knot. I still do all my small to medium trees on it. It's cost effective, smooth, doesn't jam up. Safe as houses. It self tends nicely too.

 

Can you explain this please? How does a Blake's self tend? Or am I being thick?

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