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Posted

Have you tried removing the carb, it is really easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes, and tried to get the piece out that way? If that doesn't work I would try removing the exhaust and giving that a go.

Pulling the cylinder is more or less a full strip down job. Not the worst job in the world, just take plenty of pics of where the wires and pipes route.

 

When using those plastic lockers you need to make sure that you dont push them too far into the cylinder, have them aligned correctly and just rock the piston until your happy that its locking it up properly. Dont let the piston drop down at all before trying to remove the clutch. I just use an impact wrench which saves a lot of time and hassle.

 

In regards to using cord, would it not be best to use some thick say 8mm friction cord that would only need to just be inserted into the cylinder, it should stop the chance of it being cut off by one of the ports?

 

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Ty Korrigan said:

I was seriously questioning my competence after this.

Now to figure out if the Sugi bars are a dodgy run or not.

Do you lube the nose sprocket ? I stopped doing that a few years ago when I had one explode . I reasoned that when working in dusty conditions the dirt and grit stuck to the sprocket grease and acted like a grinding past . Since I stopped greasing them I have never had one let go .

Posted
10 hours ago, Mark_Skyland said:

Have you tried removing the carb, it is really easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes, and tried to get the piece out that way? If that doesn't work I would try removing the exhaust and giving that a go.

Pulling the cylinder is more or less a full strip down job. Not the worst job in the world, just take plenty of pics of where the wires and pipes route.

 

When using those plastic lockers you need to make sure that you dont push them too far into the cylinder, have them aligned correctly and just rock the piston until your happy that its locking it up properly. Dont let the piston drop down at all before trying to remove the clutch. I just use an impact wrench which saves a lot of time and hassle.

 

In regards to using cord, would it not be best to use some thick say 8mm friction cord that would only need to just be inserted into the cylinder, it should stop the chance of it being cut off by one of the ports?

 

 

That impact wrench tip you gave me is golden!

Sorry Stu, not much help to you now!

 

Good luck getting it out.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Stubby said:

Do you lube the nose sprocket ? I stopped doing that a few years ago when I had one explode . I reasoned that when working in dusty conditions the dirt and grit stuck to the sprocket grease and acted like a grinding past . Since I stopped greasing them I have never had one let go .

I remember talking to my Husqvarna rep years ago when we were main dealers for that brand I said why do you provide grease holes and Stihl don't? He said 'if you don't grease the bar sprockets through the little grease hole on Husqvarna bars from day one, then never do. If you decide to from day one, then continually do it....it's either or, but never both.

Edited by pleasant
  • Like 3
Posted
10 hours ago, openspaceman said:

I do too but I never risk a piston stop AND an impact wrench.

Yeah, never do that ! That would surely end in tears.

 

I suppose that I should say, use whatever method the manufacture recommends or visit your service dealer. :)

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

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