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Burning wood that has seasoned down to 18% but has got wet due to rain blowing in on it


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I find the flue thermometer handy especially when lighting.  As the stove will be roaring (literally, you can hear it in the next room) but if you close the air down to tickover before the flue has reached temperature it will just go out as not hot enough base.  (And presumably the flue isn't warmed up enough to draw properly)

But yea I doubt how accurate the temperature readings are, but as a guide they're useful.

 

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6 minutes ago, NJA said:

I find the flue thermometer handy especially when lighting.  As the stove will be roaring (literally, you can hear it in the next room) but if you close the air down to tickover before the flue has reached temperature it will just go out as not hot enough base.  (And presumably the flue isn't warmed up enough to draw properly)

But yea I doubt how accurate the temperature readings are, but as a guide they're useful.

They did have a phase of mounting a flue gas port on the first section of flue, which was one of those pop rivet threaded nuts.

 

Onto which you put a bolt through and mount the thermometer, but modern stoves run relatively cooler than the older 450c+ of old.

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12 hours ago, GarethM said:

They did have a phase of mounting a flue gas port on the first section of flue, which was one of those pop rivet threaded nuts.

 

Onto which you put a bolt through and mount the thermometer, but modern stoves run relatively cooler than the older 450c+ of old.

 

That's once of the reasons I don't like my one modern eco design Esse stove. I'd much rather have an old Clearview with masses of fully controllable air flow and ability to give it a quick blast once in a while or when lighting it.  I have to use bellows to get the modern stove going for crying out loud.

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9 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

 

That's once of the reasons I don't like my one modern eco design Esse stove. I'd much rather have an old Clearview with masses of fully controllable air flow and ability to give it a quick blast once in a while or when lighting it.  I have to use bellows to get the modern stove going for crying out loud.

Mines a new charnwood and for lighting or giving it a real blast push the door to but don't actually latch it shut so a bit of air can get in round the door.

Really gets it roaring, especially when getting kindling to light

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49 minutes ago, NJA said:

Mines a new charnwood and for lighting or giving it a real blast push the door to but don't actually latch it shut so a bit of air can get in round the door.

Really gets it roaring, especially when getting kindling to light

Same with my morso

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On 06/01/2025 at 18:56, GarethM said:

No, it's just surface wet and will dry off quickly.

That.

Ive had plenty of split and seasoned timber thats been left out in he rain. It dries off very quickly, if you split it its still dry in the middle even if it feels sopping wet on the outside.

 

 

 

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23 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

I have to use bellows to get the modern stove going for crying out loud.

I just leave the door open a crack on our Hunter stove till the bigger pieces catch light, I have a piece of copper pipe to blow through if it needs a bit of assistance.

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14 hours ago, NJA said:

Mines a new charnwood and for lighting or giving it a real blast push the door to but don't actually latch it shut so a bit of air can get in round the door.

Really gets it roaring, especially when getting kindling to light

Agreed, yes I have an old Charnwood that is excellant.

 

3 minutes ago, peatff said:

I just leave the door open a crack on our Hunter stove till the bigger pieces catch light, I have a piece of copper pipe to blow through if it needs a bit of assistance.

Agreed, I use this trick once its going a bit.

 

Don't get me wrong, I can get the eco deisgn esse going eventually with all the usual tricks - lots of paper and kindling, window open a crack to neutralise the air pressure, as its also a nightmare for downdraft and smoking into the room when first lit. The flue is long and fully lined.

 

Its just not the same as my older multifuel Charnwood or Clearview. With these fellas I literally put logs next to a twist of newspaper with one piece of kindling ontop, open the ash tray, open both air vents, door open a crack and they roar like a steam engine on nitrous oxide in seconds.

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Does it struggle to light if the flu is warm? On an industrial coal boiler we had to put a brazier under the chimney to get the draft going, a day later with a warm chimney (not hot day 2) the draft would pull sheets of paper into the fire.... an extreme example but does it light better with a warm chimney?

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