Is it just me?

[woody paul]

30 minutes ago, Peter 1955 said:

I take that on board, as I don't climb. However, as a general rule, trees and limbs get bigger as you get lower. Don't you therefore start with a small saw, short bar at the top, go up a size part way down, and break out the big guns near the bottom?

That's about right, but you can just run around large stuff when just logging stems down if twice bar length.

Had it just the other day with a silver birch, owner was watching an when I got down to there it was one bar length he said you need bigger saw now, he was amazed I just kept cutting with little saw.    

[Peter 1955]

1 minute ago, Gordon S said:

I feel the balance of a saw is just as important.

Once it gets too nose heavy it is a pain to use.

Now we're getting somewhere. Surely every saw has an optimum bar for comfort, and I don't expect that to be the biggest one you can physically bolt on it. 

[Rich Rule]

They often run skip chain on the larger bars.

 

Less drag and cutting softwoods, it works.

 

Also a point to note, in the PNW the ground is usually steep and often they can’t get round to double cutting on a treacherous slope.  Hence the large bar length so all cuts can usually be done on the same side.

[AHPP]

Bar length is largely a climbing/grounding thing. Climbing you're staying clean so sharpening isn't in issue as much and you can't as easily get round the far side of some things so a big bar to reach through is what you want. Grounding basically the opposite. Steep ground that Rich just mentioned is similar to climbing.

Edited March 15 by AHPP

[Trailoftears]

A good topic from the o.p. this.

Its like this mate,most American chainsaw users who comment on forums are over 60,more pertinately,most of them are hugely fat and unfit-hence why they feel the need to stick (at least)a 25" bar on a 50cc rated pro chainsaw.Plus you have to add in their desire to fit 'big dawgs',port their saws,endlessly cookie cut bits off logs-you've no doubt watched the mind-numbingly boring vids where they show off their 'bark boxes',all v.tedious and predictable.Meanwhile,back in the real World-The Ms261 is a very flexible and forgiving saw-given its a 50cc saw-a 4hp output is really impressive.Its best place is a 16" bar,but-it will run a 18" bar happily too when broken it and keeping to Stihl's recommended .325 setup.However,and this shows Stihls rather cynical  knowledge of the markets they sell to-in the uk-max bar length suggested=18".In the States=20".So make your own mind up...20" bar for this saw is beyond stupid-and will shorten its useful life significantly.If you need to run a 20" bar-go 362/400/441 etc. 

[Trailoftears]

As an afterthought,the longer the bar length you put on this torquey little saw-the more it can find you out,I think its due to the relative lightweight power unit and monster acceleration- It will flip back at you pdq.I treat it with a lot more respect compared to my 441 thats for sure.

[Peter 1955]

 

25 minutes ago, AHPP said:

Bar length largely a climbing/grounding thing. Climbing you're staying clean so sharpening isn't in issue as much and you can't as easily get round the far side of some things so a big bar to reach through is what you want. Grounding basically the opposite. Steep ground that Rich just mentioned is similar to climbing.

As I said, I don't climb, so that's educating me. I'd never considered that, thanks, and thanks to Joe earlier.

21 minutes ago, Trailoftears said:

.Meanwhile,back in the real World-The Ms261 is a very flexible and forgiving saw-given its a 50cc saw-a 4hp output is really impressive.Its best place is a 16" bar,but-it will run a 18" bar happily too when broken it and keeping to Stihl's recommended .325 setup.However,and this shows Stihls rather cynical  knowledge of the markets they sell to-in the uk-max bar length suggested=18".In the States=20".So make your own mind up...20" bar for this saw is beyond stupid-and will shorten its useful life significantly.If you need to run a 20" bar-go 362/400/441 etc. 

Perhaps I aren't as far out of line as I thought. Thanks. 

Edited March 15 by Peter 1955

[Trailoftears]

1 minute ago, Peter 1955 said:

 

As I said, I don't climb, so that's educating me. I'd never considered tha, thanks, and thanks to Joe earlier.

Perhaps I aren't as far out of line as I thought. Thanks. 

👍

[naturarbo]

As I am a beginner, everyone asks me "why such long bar?"

Recently a PRO worked with us...any chain he got went bland, he pushed the machines to hard.

Makin them cut like shit.

Now us sharp chains and no unnecessary force on the machines, all was taught by old guy, without belly and fit.

So your machines don't dig in the wood just from their cheer weight?

Maybe a revision on work practices?

[Trailoftears]

On 15/03/2024 at 21:19, Peter 1955 said:

Now we're getting somewhere. Surely every saw has an optimum bar for comfort, and I don't expect that to be the biggest one you can physically bolt on it. 

They are old stock now,but if you can find one-Stihl used to offer a kit,only in 16" for the 260/261.2 picco 3/8 bars/2 rims plus 3 picco super chains as a performance kit,they were sub £80 when I bought one,so really good value.Tho the bar was a standard rollomatic bar it was the same weight as the light 04 bar.