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Insulating a lorry container


Steve Bullman
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To prevent condensation you need to keep the warm (damp) air away from your cold surfaces so spray foam seems like a good idea as that will fully cover your cold surfaces.

 

The other way will be to put in a layer of insulation with airflow between it and the cold surface.  You ideally want some sort of vapour barrier with this solution to separate the cold air and warm damp air as the insulation will never be 100% sealed but not essential if you have enough air flow.

 

I have no experience with a shipping container, just know the theory.  I'm guessing that getting airflow behind the insulation might not be so easy.

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On 14/11/2023 at 20:18, Steve Bullman said:

Yep already got the container. It’s bolted onto the back of our shop for storage. It was fine till we started putting the heater on in the shop, now it just rains with condensation and we had to pull everything out of it 

Are the doors open constantly, or is it usually closed, then opened when access is needed?

 

The warm air will condensate on the steel walls. The two different temperatures never really settle to a norm, which is where the issues arise.

We have a few containers on site and the doors are never shut. The air inside is equal to the air temp outside which reduces the condensation. The only issue we see is where the OPs are stood at the chopsaw, breathing out and the condensation gathering on the roof directly above. 

If the containers are boarded floors, get a hole saw (60mm) and drill a couple of dozen holes around the perimeter. it'll help with the air temp equalizing. 

Apologies if its 'teaching granny to suck eggs' 

 

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If you're not wanting to spend a lot and looks don't matter, just sprayfoam the lot. Won't do the metal any good but should be OK for long enough. Any other option is more time and money for the same end result. The only thing about that foam is the smell lingers so the store will have to air out for a few days before restocking.

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Forget about air circulation.

Spray pro foam into the corragations and allow to fully cure. Then carefully cut flush with the walls. Then clad the inside with kingspan glued to the metal. Any gaps fill with pro-foam.

 

the kingspan is a vapour barrier anyway, so you can tape the seams if you want and it will be 100% impermeable. Then sheet out with plywood, glued to the kingspan.

 

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The cheapest way I did it years ago was batten the roof with 2x2’s every 4 feet, I just cut them long and jammed them in then used a roll of tinfoil bubble wrap between roof and battens and hit the battens tight against the roof, pulled the ends tight and it’s worked fine for about 23 years now.  I never had heating in it.

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