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How to split 40" Sitka Spruce rounds


Layne
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When I was a teenager we had loads of big elm rings, axe would just bounce so we used to bang in a line of three or four steel wedges to split off a chunk about 10 inches wide. Splitting the whole thing straight down the middle was just never going to happen.

 

It depends on the wood, and also personal preference but I would suggest a maul is good for splitting stubborn wood that needs several blows in a line to grow a split. An axe can get stuck in this situation, I find the axe better when you're going to go through in one hit. I also find the axe kinder to my elbow.

 

Nowadays I would saw into blocks rather than split with wedges, did some 40" beech rounds like this recently. I didn't make much of a dent with maul until they were sawn down, at which point splitting with an axe became quite easy (although I put them on my log splitter).

 

I like a 25" bar for this and use the nose end, so the chips clear between the log and the saw otherwise bit prone to clogging.

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Spruce is reasonable straight grained and nice to split, obviouly the bigger lumps take a bit longer. I think the above has most of my tips.I use an axe, fiskars, apart from the really stubborn bits

Check to see where any side branches are, and try not to cut perpenduclar to them

Try a couple of hits in a couple of directions going rght through the centre - should avoid side branches there - and they can sound 'hopefull' that they will split that way then worth sending a few more hits to split it in half and work from there

If not, I'll work round the edge taking the biggest liumps off that I can - anything to make the piece smaller.

Often wrking round the edge will square off the centre and then the next step for me would be to knock the corners off - easier than gong through the centre still.

Eventally nibbling away like this will make is manageable.

 

Sometimes it can work going side on to a piece, not the flat face but through the bark. Sometimes turn it over and work the same angle from both flat faces, and the edge.

 

If I start to struggle I will use a chipping - one of the wedge pieces that come off as a wedge and put that in where the axe opens the log up. Wooden you can leave it in as you make your next cut and often the pressure from that will make it easier to split afterwards.

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1 thing i've noticed no matter hte size of the log ur splitting, just slamming the axe as hard as u can into the middle of the log generally doesn't work very well.

 

I always try to have the bottom edge of my axe head sticking out of the log makes a big difference, eveb when ur whole axe head is only 1/2" into the log it more often just gets stuck or does nothing, 1/2" further back it splits it no probs.

 

More about accurate cuts, finding any splits in grain and keeping axe head right on edge of the log

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