Snap cut...

[john87]

Hi All,

 

Ok, newbie question here... What if the deal with snap cuts and why bother??

 

Ok, so there you are sawing a more or less horizontal branch off a tree. You do the undercut first, THEN the final cut.. Now, i always thought you did it a bit further out from the trunk.. I have seen others do it nearer to the trunk too.. What difference does it make and which is the correct way??

 

john..

[Mesterh]

1 hour ago, john87 said:

Hi All,

 

Ok, newbie question here... What if the deal with snap cuts and why bother??

 

Ok, so there you are sawing a more or less horizontal branch off a tree. You do the undercut first, THEN the final cut.. Now, i always thought you did it a bit further out from the trunk.. I have seen others do it nearer to the trunk too.. What difference does it make and which is the correct way??

 

john..

Nearer to the trunk is a jump cut, there is also less chance of the saw getting pinched/trapped.

[john87]

9 minutes ago, Mesterh said:

Nearer to the trunk is a jump cut, there is also less chance of the saw getting pinched/trapped.

Thank you!!

john..

[Mick Dempsey]

So many different factors will mean that in front/behind/dead level with the bottom cut is often irrelevant.

1: As ever species is a big factor, a cedar branch will pop off good as gold, a spruce will try to hang in there till it’s vertical. Sycamore and poplar will separate fast, oak, not so much.

2: Speed of cut, a groundsaw like a 550/560 will increase the likelihood of your branch doing as it’s told, but most of us usually have a topper in our hands when we’re taking branches off.

3: Length and weight and angle of branch.

The longer and more horizontal the more likely it’ll overtake the cut as it droops and make a mess of things.

 

I have read on here that making the top cut directly in line above the bottom cut is the new best practice.

[Will C]

Mick has the best answer in my mind, deciding which is best for the situation comes down to experience, it will take a couple of years at least till you don’t stop and think, and just do.

[john87]

3 hours ago, Mick Dempsey said:

I have read on here that making the top cut directly in line above the bottom cut is the new best practice.

To be honest, after LOTS of pondering, that is what i decided i would do in future.. Glad others agree!! You have cut the bottom [so the bark will not tear] and, with cutting directly opposite, the thing will break off with no chance of the cut getting overtaken and making a mess as Mick says..

 

The ONLY advantage i can thing of for doing it the "spaced out cuts" way, is, if you are cutting SHORT bits off, and want to be able to put the saw down before physically snapping the thing off by hand, so as to be able to throw it where you want..

 

Another thing i do not like about the "spaced out cuts" lark. Say you are cutting a vertical or fairly vertical branch off. You cut the one side, then the other, however the thing splits down the grain of the "middle" bit, before you are ready. The entire weight of the branch has now dropped vertically right onto your bar and chain.. That will work wonders for it/them, i am sure..

 

john..

[Mick Dempsey]

Don’t bet your life on it not tearing or otherwise making a mess.

 

There are other ways of doing it a Coos bay cut or something, and a modified gob with side cuts.

 

Bottom line is, if you’re  retaining the tree, go out and take it in smaller pieces or you may well be asking your groundy to send up some mud to hide your shame.

Edited December 6, 2021 by Mick Dempsey

[5thelement]

32 minutes ago, john87 said:

To be honest, after LOTS of pondering, that is what i decided i would do in future.. Glad others agree!! You have cut the bottom [so the bark will not tear] and, with cutting directly opposite, the thing will break off with no chance of the cut getting overtaken and making a mess as Mick says..

 

The ONLY advantage i can thing of for doing it the "spaced out cuts" way, is, if you are cutting SHORT bits off, and want to be able to put the saw down before physically snapping the thing off by hand, so as to be able to throw it where you want..

 

Another thing i do not like about the "spaced out cuts" lark. Say you are cutting a vertical or fairly vertical branch off. You cut the one side, then the other, however the thing splits down the grain of the "middle" bit, before you are ready. The entire weight of the branch has now dropped vertically right onto your bar and chain.. That will work wonders for it/them, i am sure..

 

john..

If I was you I would go out with an experienced arborist and learn some techniques and applications for different cutting methods rather than taking a few pointers on an arb forum and jumping to your own conclusions on what the purpose of the inboard/outboard cuts ‘lark’ is all about, as you clearly haven’t a clue.

[MattyF]

Not only do you increase the risk of leaving tears and damaging the collar if you cut close in a big heavy branch will also damage buttress roots and trunk if it hits them.
Different woods and cuts will al have different out comes the larger the timber to a degree the less predicable it can be.

[peds]

An outboard cut will fall flat (possibly), an inboard cut will fall tips first (maybe), which can be a useful tool depending on where your targets are, or provide an amusing game of Whoops Bouncy Branch.