Logosol LM410

[Conor Wright]

Just now, trigger_andy said:

Logosol says it fits the vast majority of Bandsaw Mills. The track width is it accepts is either on their websites or in the user manual, which is also available on-line. Wider tracked Mills would need the LM410 XL, which is just a wider chassis. 

Literally just read that on the first paragraph of their blurb. That's what i get for posting before doing any research! As some do...😏

I think I'll be taking the hammer to the piggy bank in the new year. Gonna keep an eye on this thread and see how it goes for you but as my main use will be to plane a frame for a house for myself I reckon it'll be well up to the job. 

[trigger_andy]

Just now, Conor Wright said:

Literally just read that on the first paragraph of their blurb. That's what i get for posting before doing any research! As some do...😏

I think I'll be taking the hammer to the piggy bank in the new year. Gonna keep an eye on this thread and see how it goes for you but as my main use will be to plane a frame for a house for myself I reckon it'll be well up to the job. 

Have you considered Makita’s 12” Hand Planer? Think you need to look to Japan or the US to find a used one, and they’re not cheap. I’m sorely tempted to get one anyway. 🤣

 

But the LM410 would manage it no bother. I planed 3 x 6” Beams at the same time. Managed it no bother and obviously saves a lot of time. 

[Johnsond]

16 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Have you considered Makita’s 12” Hand Planer? Think you need to look to Japan or the US to find a used one, and they’re not cheap. I’m sorely tempted to get one anyway. 🤣

 

But the LM410 would manage it no bother. I planed 3 x 6” Beams at the same time. Managed it no bother and obviously saves a lot of time. 

I’ve got one Andy if you want to try it bud before committing its not the lightest thing to handle but does a cracking job. That’s lad doing his mantle piece. You are right though it’s not a cheap bit of kit 🤮

[trigger_andy]

Just now, Johnsond said:

I’ve got one Andy if you want to try it bud before committing its not the lightest thing to handle but does a cracking job. That’s lad doing his mantle piece. You are right though it’s not a cheap bit of kit 🤮

Never knew you had that Dave. That looks like a new machine as well. How much did that set you back?

 

[muttley9050]

Nice looking tool Andy. I've looked at these before but they wouldn't fit my lucas [emoji23]
Is there no way you can creep up on the cut for harder timbers?
I can do similar with my spindle moulder but see the advantage of this for longer timber.
It always seems wrong to me to mould green timbers. You may get away with it on pine, but certainly not oak! Will be interested to get an update of how the timbers dry.
Have fun making sawdust.

[trigger_andy]

Just now, muttley9050 said:

Nice looking tool Andy. I've looked at these before but they wouldn't fit my lucas
Is there no way you can creep up on the cut for harder timbers?
I can do similar with my spindle moulder but see the advantage of this for longer timber.
It always seems wrong to me to mould green timbers. You may get away with it on pine, but certainly not oak! Will be interested to get an update of how the timbers dry.
Have fun making sawdust.

I imagine you could take 3 passes with Hardwood, but a single pass is time consuming enough as it is when you have 4 sides to plane. Id hate to think how long it would take to Mill enough for a Cabin going down that road. And you'd have to be constantly resetting the depths. A Single Pass and all the Depths are pre-set really.

 

I'll see how the Larch logs handle being milled and moulded green, Ive also a couple of 4.7m Green Spruce Logs moulded to see how they settle . It certainly seems to be what Logosol recommend doing and I know of two cabins built on the Estate behind me with the 5" and 6" D Profile Logs and they where milled/moulded green. They have been there 20 years now and seem fine.

 

I might mill the logs at 155mm, as opposed to 150mm and let them sit for a season or two to partially dry out and then mould. The longer I leave them to dry the less shrinkage issues I'll have as well.

 

Out of interest why would moulding green oak be an issue for logs like this? Im just thinking along the lines of Timber framing and that they are predominantly build from green oak. 

[Johnsond]

7 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

Never knew you had that Dave. That looks like a new machine as well. How much did that set you back?

 

Had it a while now Andy, it was a joe special that and the chain morticer plus a few other bits if I remember correctly for an  XJR 1300 cafe racer unfinished  project 

Edited August 24, 2021 by Johnsond

[trigger_andy]

Had it a while now Andy, it was a joe special that and the chain morticer plus a few other bits of I remember correctly for an  XJR 1300 cafe racer unfinished  project 

Ah cool! Getting the 12” Planer would certainly finish off my Makita Timber Framing Set. [emoji16]

The 5402NA is certainly gonna come in handy for building my Cabin as my Mitre Saw only cuts 4” thick. I used it to get these demo logs squared up. Worked a treat.

[muttley9050]

I imagine you could take 3 passes with Hardwood, but a single pass is time consuming enough as it is when you have 4 sides to plane. Id hate to think how long it would take to Mill enough for a Cabin going down that road. And you'd have to be constantly resetting the depths. A Single Pass and all the Depths are pre-set really.
 
I'll see how the Larch logs handle being milled and moulded green, Ive also a couple of 4.7m Green Spruce Logs moulded to see how they settle . It certainly seems to be what Logosol recommend doing and I know of two cabins built on the Estate behind me with the 5" and 6" D Profile Logs and they where milled/moulded green. They have been there 20 years now and seem fine.
 
I might mill the logs at 155mm, as opposed to 150mm and let them sit for a season or two to partially dry out and then mould. The longer I leave them to dry the less shrinkage issues I'll have as well.
 
Out of interest why would moulding green oak be an issue for logs like this? Im just thinking along the lines of Timber framing and that they are predominantly build from green oak. 

Timber framing is different to logs like that.
In a frame joints are designed to tighten as the wood dries. Remedial work is often needed as the frame dries, to fix gaps created by movement, if the frame is part of a sealed wall.
Oak is also far more prone to drying defects than softwoods. A smallish knot in oak can cause massive distortion where in cedar or pine etc you could have 5 times as many knots and not notice any movement.
I think if you made green cabin logs like that from oak you would have all sorts of gaps and twists after it had dried. Especially if the cabin was exposed to full sun or heated on the inside too early on.

[trigger_andy]

Timber framing is different to logs like that.
In a frame joints are designed to tighten as the wood dries. Remedial work is often needed as the frame dries, to fix gaps created by movement, if the frame is part of a sealed wall.
Oak is also far more prone to drying defects than softwoods. A smallish knot in oak can cause massive distortion where in cedar or pine etc you could have 5 times as many knots and not notice any movement.
I think if you made green cabin logs like that from oak you would have all sorts of gaps and twists after it had dried. Especially if the cabin was exposed to full sun or heated on the inside too early on.

Thanks for the reply.

I’m almost tempted to make a few demo logs to see how they fair. [emoji38]