Funny grooves

[Johnsond]

1 hour ago, gobbypunk said:

Um no not Human error crap nuts why they are not nylock or they dont suggest thread lock I dont know so I now have 2 nuts on the top to lock it off with and I have also added 2 small turnbuckels where the tracks join as I had a very small gap ,had the same on my old one seen the turn buckels on Woodland Mills FB page some matey had done it on there  now all I need is to get the track level again ,would gladly pay someone to do it ,then hopefully mill up some nice Walnut and Mullberry .

Can you post a pic of the turnbuckles location ??. I found when building mine that the tolerances weren’t great and pretty much upgraded all the bolts etc to a better grade inc nyloks throughout. There is a slight gap between the rail sections but nothing to worry about. It was set for level once on the trailer chassis and has stayed spot on since. 

Edited February 8, 2021 by Johnsond

[gobbypunk]

Hi jon sorry I totally forgot to take a photo of the turnbuckle not at the yard till friday  now so will do it then

Sorry Mark

[gobbypunk]

Hi guys so after getting over a chest infection ,back to my mill finally got it all level again and still getting funny groves and the cut just isnt as good as when I first set it up been through all the nuts and bolts ,one thing though in the book it says to slacken band tension every time you leave it to avoid flat spots on the band wheel as it came all set up with a band ready to go do you think I have a flat spot I have looked for one but nothing obvious ,and Woodland Mills dont have a mobile engineer in this country so stuck trying to sort it myself  its doing my head in I just want to get on and mill some timber do any of you guys who has a Woodland Mill fancy coming and having a look with me .

Thanks Mark

[Johnsond]

3 hours ago, gobbypunk said:

Hi guys so after getting over a chest infection ,back to my mill finally got it all level again and still getting funny groves and the cut just isnt as good as when I first set it up been through all the nuts and bolts ,one thing though in the book it says to slacken band tension every time you leave it to avoid flat spots on the band wheel as it came all set up with a band ready to go do you think I have a flat spot I have looked for one but nothing obvious ,and Woodland Mills dont have a mobile engineer in this country so stuck trying to sort it myself  its doing my head in I just want to get on and mill some timber do any of you guys who has a Woodland Mill fancy coming and having a look with me .

Thanks Mark

That’s Beech I’m cutting right now. The lines are visible 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ always have been from day one. I’d say just mill with it and then sort the imperfections out later once timber has dried  if they are an issue. On a similar note that’s the worst bit of blade deflection I’ve had with this mill, Elm and a hard to soft patch, blade tension is spot on but it just went on a right wander 🤷‍♂️. 

Edited February 27, 2021 by Johnsond

[trigger_andy]

That’s Beech I’m cutting right now. The lines are visible 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ always have been from day one. 

That’s a stunning piece of beech. The groves look perfectly accept to me. What more could someone expect? 🤷‍♂️

[Johnsond]

1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

 

 

That’s a stunning piece of beech. The groves look perfectly accept to me. What more could someone expect? 🤷‍♂️

 

 

 

1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

 

 

That’s a stunning piece of beech. The groves look perfectly accept to me. What more could someone expect? 🤷‍♂️

 

 

Firewood rescue pile Andy 🤷‍♂️😃. Yeah ref the marks it’s all I’ve ever known with the mill so don’t really take much notice to tell truth. 

Edited February 27, 2021 by Johnsond

[trigger_andy]

1 minute ago, Johnsond said:

 

Firewood rescue pile Andy 🤷‍♂️😃. Yeah ref the marks it’s all I’ve ever known with the mill so don’t really take much notice to tell truth. 

It’s smooth enough just to get the sander on it. 🤣 

 

Imagine expecting a planed finish  off of a Band-saw? 🤷‍♂️

[gobbypunk]

I am just wanting the same finish as when I first set the thing up and I can feel the whole thing shake ,it is not what I paid 4 grand for bloody issues ,sorry but the Woodland Mills page on FBook is full of people saying oh the teck people are ace came and helped and all we get in the UK is nothing from them they should have some sort of back up not everyone is an engineer ,sorry its just doing my head right in Why will it not sort its self out what am I missing or not doing I just want to get on with milling 

[trigger_andy]

50 minutes ago, gobbypunk said:

I am just wanting the same finish as when I first set the thing up and I can feel the whole thing shake ,it is not what I paid 4 grand for bloody issues ,sorry but the Woodland Mills page on FBook is full of people saying oh the teck people are ace came and helped and all we get in the UK is nothing from them they should have some sort of back up not everyone is an engineer ,sorry its just doing my head right in Why will it not sort its self out what am I missing or not doing I just want to get on with milling 

I know you've asked for someone to come and do the setting up for you but I think you're gonna have to just bite the bullet and pay someone to come out. Stephen Cull used to do visits, not sure if he still does but you'll maybe have to just resign yourself to the fact you dont have even basic mechanical skills and factor in a fee of something like £1000 to get this fixed for you, by someone here or a search on the internet. 

[skc101fc]

Hey mark, here's one to try. The grooves look like a resonance is building in the frame of the saw, (assuming your tracks are mounted securely and evenly over their whole length). Try slackening off all frame mounting bolts - the same ones you tightened when building the saw, then push it up and down the rails a few times, shaking and twisting the frame as much as you can frequently. Then retighten everything. Doing this should ensure that all track rollers and frame posts carry the weight evenly with no single roller being even imperceptibly lighter than any other,and no cross frame twists or tensions being present . Do this with no tension on the blade. Worked for my hm126, as did finding the sweet spot of forward speed , and slightly overtensioning blade.
Shaun